Epoxy Resin Crystallisation

What is Resin Crystallisation?

Crystallisation is the natural solid state of a product and resins, and hardeners can all experience epoxy resin crystallisation. It primarily occurs with two component systems and crystallisation does not mean you have defective material. Crystallisation occurs when the A component is exposed to cold temperatures.

What to do in case of Epoxy Resin Crystallisation

Epoxy resins crystallisation is completely reversible. Think of water turning from liquid into ice and vice versa. Water will always remain unaffected from these repetitive cycles and so does the original properties of resin. Signs of crystallisation appear in the form of cloudiness, free-floating crystals, crystal masses or as completely solidified material. Since the crystals are of higher density than the liquid resin itself, they sink to the bottom of the container.

The clear epoxy resin begins to look foggy, cloudy, hazy, or even milky white. The milky white matter goes on to build and spread, from the bottom and sidewalls of the container. Prolonged exposure to cold temperatures will cause this sandy-like texture to ultimately take over the entire contents of the container.

Why Does Crystallisation Occur?

  • High purity of material
  • Low viscosity of material
  • Cold temperatures
  • Temperature fluctuations

How to de-crystallize?

Always check for epoxy resin crystallisation in your Resin A-component before you begin working. It is possible that when the Resin A-component is first opened there are no signs of crystallisation. To check simply, pour a little resin A-component into a mixing cup.

  1. If detected, place the containers in a water bath with boiling water (100°C) with the lids on. Container sizes will affect the length of time needed for de-crystallisation. We recommend turning the sealed A-components in the boiling water every 2 minutes until every side has been heated.
  2. Stir resin including container sides and bottom thoroughly to ensure all crystals have been melted and that heat has been evenly distributed.
  3. If crystals are still present continue the process until there is no evidence.
  4. Let the epoxy cool down to room temperature and then proceed to use as normal.

(Note: The treatment with boiling temperatures doesn’t damage the epoxy or impact its properties. The Resin A-component will also not cure as it hasn’t been mixed with the Hardener B-component. )

In the case of heavily crystallised epoxy, it can take up to 1 hour in boiling water to de-crystallize A-component. Please contact us before using your epoxy if you have any doubt.

epoxidharz transparent clear epodex
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Polishing Epoxy Resin

Polishing Epoxy Resin – A Simple How to Guide

Polishing epoxy resin to generate a high gloss finish is not difficult to complete. With a simple and effective polish, you finalize your resin work piece and make it shine with brilliance.
In this blog post we will explain how to create a perfectly smooth and shiny epoxy resin surface in just a few steps and what you need to do.

Which Epoxy Resin Surfaces can be Polished?

In principle, all hardened epoxy resin surfaces can be polished. It is especially easy with flat surfaces, such as table tops. With small, uneven castings, polishing can take a little longer. This is the case, for example, with self-made epoxy resin jewellery in a special form. But don’t stress, with our tips and tricks you can get the job done. Depending on the size of the surface to be polished, you can either work completely manually or use a polishing machine.

metallic bringht table

Polishing with the Polishing Machine

Sanding by hand can be strenuous so take the stress away and use a sanding machine. Suitable for this purpose are sanding machines like the orbital sander, a special sanding machine or a drill. For all machines mentioned, there are special attachments with which you can also polish. Polishing machines can be prices however if you want to polish large surfaces regularly, the investment is worthwhile. You can also rent a sanding machine in many DIY stores or equipment rental shops. This makes sense if you only need the machine once or very rarely. In general, it is much easier and more pleasant to polish large surfaces with the machine. This saves a lot of time and energy. For small surfaces you can also work very well with wet sandpaper and polishing paste. This often works better and more precise. If you want to work with a machine, a drill with a special attachment is the best choice.
Under no circumstances should you use angle grinders for sanding epoxy resin. These usually have no speed control. Therefore, there is a risk that the surface of the work piece becomes much too hot due to the high speed.

How to Polish Epoxy Resin:

Step 1: Sand the Surface

For example, you have coated your table with epoxy resin and the last layer is completely cured? Great – because now we are moving on to the next step, the final touches. The sanding of epoxy resin starts with a wet sanding. All you need is our sandpaper, a sanding block and water.

Before you start sanding, make the sandpaper a bit wet and moisten it again and again during the sanding process. Sanding is done carefully in circular movements. You start with a coarse grit 120, then you use finer and finer sandpaper, up to a fine grit 3000. Wet sanding can be done either by hand or with an orbital sander. Work on the edges very carefully and with less pressure, otherwise too much epoxy resin will quickly be removed. The sanding is completed when your tabletop is smooth and even. Now wipe the remaining water off the table. Now you’re ready to polish the epoxy resin.

Step 2: Epoxy Resin Polishing

The polishing of your epoxy resin surface can also be done again either by hand or by machine. As described above, the size of the surface determines which method is more suitable.

Option 1: Polishing by Hand
If you want to polish your surface by hand, you will again need the sandpapersanding blockpolishing paste, water and a cotton or linen cloth. Then put some polishing paste on the cloth and moisten it with some water. Then place the cloth over the sanding block. Rub the cloth over the surface in slow, circular movements with little pressure. Your sanding step is completed when the desired degree of gloss is achieved.

Option 2: Polishing with a Drill
If you would like to polish with a machine, for small workpieces we recommend a drill on which you screw a polishing attachment on. There are attachments with polishing sponges or polishing discs and special polishing ball heads. The best polishing compounds are those that are also intended for wood.

Start by screwing a flannel polishing attachment onto the drill. Then apply some polishing paste to the attachment. Now carefully polish the surface in even movements. Be careful with the edges and apply less pressure here. After the first polishing pass you can do a second pass with an even finer flannel attachment. When you have achieved the desired degree of shine, you have completed the job.

Option 3: Polishing with a Polishing Machine
Large areas can be polished to a high gloss in a quick and easy manner with a polishing machine. A random orbit sander with a polishing attachment is the first choice for epoxy resin surfaces. Due to its eccentric movement, you will achieve a perfect polishing result without removing too much resin. To do this, apply some polishing paste to the polishing pad on your sander. Turn the machine on and move it in circular movements with little pressure over the surface until the desired gloss level is achieved.

Robert Johnson
Robert Johnson
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314,000+

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Based on 3.100 ratings

I am a pro a this art and this product by far is top line and very easy to work with.

13.08.2022

I am an artist and have worked with Epoxy before but this by far is the easiest and clearest epoxy. Color range is fab !

09.08.2022

The quality and ease of use compared to other products I have used in the past is incredible ! I found it super easy to use, and my projects turned out great!

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How to Make a River Table

River Table – Step-by-Step Instructions


Building a river table is easier than it looks. Our team has prepared easy-to-use kits, which include everything you need to achieve your trendy river table.
Get everything you need now in 2 clicks!

Step 1 – Control your working environment

Before starting, make sure that your epoxy, your room, and your mold have a temperature of 70°F. To ensure a perfect result, it is important to have a dry and dust-free environment.

Step 2 – Build your Casting Frame

Once you know the size of the river table you want to build, it’s time to build a frame for it. To do so, use a wooden plate and wooden strips. Cover everything with our EPODEX separating tape.

Screw all wooden parts together and glue all the edges with silicone. Once the silicone is cured, spray the Separating Agent spray over the entire mold. Wipe off any excess with a dry dust-free cloth.

Pro Tips: Do not overlap the Separating Tape! Leave a small gap to save you rigorous sanding later.

Step 3 – First Layer of Resin to Seal the Wood

Once your wooden planks are safely secured in your mold, it is time for the epoxy. Prepare a small mixture of resin and hardener. Make sure your mixture is free of streaks before using it.

Use your brush to apply a thin layer on part of the wooden planks which will be in contact with the epoxy. Pour the rest of your resin-hardener mixture on the river between your wooden planks. Allow the first layer to cure for at least 48h before continuing with Step 4.

Pro Tips: Be sure to always mix according to the mixing ratio. Our PRO+ Kit has a mixing ratio of 2:1. In other words, mix, for example, 1gal of resin with 0.5gal of hardener.

Step 4 – Pour the River

It’s now time for the river table to come alive! First, look how deep you must pour. If your pouring depth is more than 2”, we recommend doing this step in layers of a maximum of 2”.

Mix the epoxy resin and hardener together. Again, make sure that the mixture is free of streaks before using it. If you have selected a kit with a colorant, add your colorant into the streak-free mixture. Now pour the mixture into your river table and let it cure.

Pro Tips: Play on the color intensity by adding more or fewer colorants.

Robert Johnson
Robert Johnson
Any questions? I am glad to help!

More than

314,000+

Satisfied costumers

4.78/5

Based on 3.100 ratings

I am a pro a this art and this product by far is top line and very easy to work with.

13.08.2022

I am an artist and have worked with Epoxy before but this by far is the easiest and clearest epoxy. Color range is fab !

09.08.2022

The quality and ease of use compared to other products I have used in the past is incredible ! I found it super easy to use, and my projects turned out great!

10.07.2022

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Step 5 – Unmolding, Sanding, and Sealing

Once your river table is perfectly cured, you can unmold it. Unscrew all screws, cut out the silicone and knock out all wooden strips with a hammer.
Sand all areas requiring to be sanded with a random orbital sander or waterproof sanding paper. We recommend starting at a grit of, for example, 150 and working your way up to at least 3000 or more. Once your river table is sanded to your liking, clean it and think about which kind of sealant would be the best for your need.
You can achieve a high gloss finish by simply polishing. To do so, use again your random orbital sander but this time with a buffing attachment.
Alternatively, you can also use oil, wax, or a PU varnish as a sealant.

Pro Tips: Let your sealant dry completely before using your table.

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