The instructions for use can be found on each product page — simply scroll down to view them. We also offer YouTube videos and tutorials that show how to use our products, prepare surfaces, and choose the right materials. If you need more help, feel free to contact our team by email or phone for detailed guidance.

If you have any questions about order processing, delivery, or our products, please contact our service team at service@epodex.com so we can find a solution together. Your satisfaction is our top priority.

We offer a 30-day return policy, which means you have 30 days from the date you receive your item to request a return. To be eligible, items must be unused, in their original condition and packaging, and include proof of purchase.

To start a return, contact us at service@epodex.com. Items sent back without requesting a return first will not be accepted. Please note that return shipping costs are the responsibility of the customer

If your parcel or products arrive damaged, please contact our service team immediately. Send photos of the damaged goods by email, include your order number, and if possible indicate which components are damaged. Damages must be reported within 7 days of the delivery date. Our team will make sure the damaged products are replaced as quickly as possible.

Same-day shipping means your order will be packed and shipped as soon as payment is received, with no preparation delays. Our warehouse operates Monday to Friday. Orders placed on weekends or public holidays are prepared and shipped on the next working day. Orders placed after 1 PM EST on weekdays are shipped the following business day.

No — we do not ship on weekends or public holidays. Our warehouse is open Monday to Friday.

Unfortunately, we do not currently have a showroom. However, you can pick up your order at our office or warehouse. If you would like to arrange a pickup, please contact us by email or phone in advance.

No — we are an online shop, and our products are only available through our website.

Yes — we sell to both private customers and trade professionals.

All orders are shipped with FedEx.

No — unfortunately payment on delivery is not available. You can choose Afterpay or Klarna Pay Later at checkout to pay later through their platforms.

We offer several secure and convenient payment methods:

• Credit Card (MasterCard, Visa, Amex, Maestro, etc.) — securely processed via Stripe, with no additional fees. Your card is charged immediately after checkout.
• PayPal — fast and secure payment; you will be redirected to PayPal to complete your purchase.
• Amazon Pay — check out easily using your existing Amazon account and saved details.
• Klarna Slice It — pay in installments over time (typically 3–36 months, with or without interest).
• Apple Pay — automatically available when using a compatible Apple device.
• Klarna Pay Later — monthly financing through Klarna.
• Afterpay — buy now, receive your order, and pay later in four fortnightly installments over eight weeks.

No — you can order as a guest, so creating an account is not required.

Please contact our team by email, and we will assist you as soon as possible.

First, try to reset your password. If that doesn’t work, please contact our team by email and we will help you.

Yes — if your order is confirmed but not yet processed, we may be able to cancel it. Please contact us as soon as possible at service@epodex.com, as orders are usually processed within 1–2 business days. Once an order has been processed, cancellation is no longer possible and you will need to follow our return policy.

Please contact us by email at service@epodex.com, include your order number, and tell us which item is missing so our team can arrange a reshipment as quickly as possible.

If you received the wrong product, please send us an email at service@epodex.com with your name, order number, and photos of the items received. If possible, also let us know what is missing from your order so we can resolve the issue quickly.

To modify or add information for the carrier after your order is placed, please contact us by email at service@epodex.com and include your full address and order number.

You can track your order and check its status on our website. Once your order ships, you will receive a shipping confirmation email with a FedEx tracking link.

Shipping is handled by FedEx. Orders are prepared after payment is received, and same-day shipping is available for instant payments. Typical delivery time is 1–5 business days.

Shipping costs are based on the order total:

• Free shipping within the contiguous USA on orders over $80.00
• $7.99 flat rate for orders under $79.99

Please note that we do not currently ship to Alaska, Hawaii, or Puerto Rico.

No — we do not deliver to PO boxes.

Yes — our marketing team reviews partnership and collaboration inquiries individually. Please send us an email to service@epodex.com with details about your project and your expectations for the collaboration.

No — we do not offer training courses, and you do not need a training course to use our products. We provide video tutorials, and our team is available to answer questions if you need help.

Unfortunately, we do not have technicians available to visit job sites. If you need help with your project, please contact us by email at service@epodex.com and include photos, and we will provide you with the best possible solution.

Yes — we work closely with many installers. Please send us an email at service@epodex.com with a description of your project and your address, and we will check availability in your area.

You can request the technical and safety data sheets by emailing our support team at service@epodex.com. We will send you the PDF files as soon as possible.

Once we receive and inspect your return, we will notify you whether the refund is approved. If approved, the refund will be issued to your original payment method within 14 days.

Please note that only the value of the goods is refunded — delivery fees are not refunded. Processing times may vary depending on your bank or credit card provider. Return shipping costs and any loss of value of the goods are the customer’s responsibility.

The F/BVT code and date engraved on the bottle are the manufacturer’s mold or production codes. They do not refer to the product inside the bottle.

We want you to be completely satisfied with our products and service. If you are not satisfied, our satisfaction guarantee allows you to request help or a return under our 30-day return policy.

If you receive a defective, damaged, or incorrect item, please contact us immediately at service@epodex.com so we can evaluate the issue and provide a solution. Our support team is available to assist you.

We are 100% confident in the quality of our products, and we want you to feel the same. You can test a small amount of your order to experience the quality for yourself. If you are not satisfied, you can return your order and receive a refund of the purchase price.

Please send us an email at service@epodex.com with all relevant details about your order, and our team will send you the information as quickly as possible.

This can happen for a few reasons:

• A color has not been selected (for epoxy resins, choose either transparent colorless or a specific color).
• A quantity has not been selected (choose the required amount by weight or surface area).
• Required options have not been completed (even if you do not want an accessory kit or finish, you still need to select this option).
• The product is currently unavailable.

If none of these solutions help, please send us an email with a screenshot so our IT team can investigate and resolve the issue as quickly as possible.

Microcement is a highly durable coating applied in two layers and mixed with Liquid B (acrylic binder). It can be used on floors, walls, ceilings, and furniture and is available in two grain sizes.

The layered application creates a unique textured finish and provides excellent resistance to wear and scratches. When sealed with a PU topcoat, Microcement is suitable for bathrooms, wet rooms, and outdoor areas.

CONCRETE EFFECT is a more cost-effective alternative designed mainly for walls and decorative surfaces that are not exposed to heavy wear. It is applied in one layer and comes in one grain size (slightly finer than Medium Microcement).

It is easier to sand, making it ideal for decorative or temporary projects. A PU topcoat can also be applied for additional protection.

In summary:
Choose Microcement for durability and high-traffic areas.
Choose CONCRETE EFFECT for decorative wall finishes with lighter use.

Microcement is mixed by weight using Microcement Powder (A) and Liquid B.

Medium Grain Microcement

• Mixing ratio: 100 : 20
• Example: 15.4 lbs Powder + 3 lbs Liquid B
• Add WB Pigment to achieve your desired color

Large Grain Microcement

• Mixing ratio: 100 : 25
• Example: 15.4 lbs Powder + 3.85 lbs Liquid B
• Add WB Pigment to achieve your desired color

You can add between 2% and 10% WB Pigment to the mixture.

All Microcement sets are supplied with 2% WB Pigment, which matches the colors shown on our website.
For more intense or deeper colors, you can increase the pigment up to 10%. Additional WB Pigment must be ordered separately.

The mixing ratio for concrete effect is 5:2 —
that means 5 parts powder to 2 parts water (by weight).

For example:
2.2 lbs Concrete Effect powder mixed with 0.1 gallon of water.

The Putty Primer should be mixed as follows:

• 11 lbs of Putty Primer
• 0.5 gallon of water

Mix thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, lump-free consistency before application.

The mixing ratio is:

100 parts quartz sand : 60 parts resin/hardener

For example:

• 22 lbs quartz sand
• 8.8 lbs resin (A)
• 4.4 lbs hardener (B)

Mix all components thoroughly until you achieve a uniform consistency before applicatio

The mixing ratio for the 2K bonding primer is 5:1.

For example:

• 1 lb Bonding Primer (Resin)
• 0.2 lb Bonding Primer (Hardener)

Mix both components thoroughly before application to ensure proper performance and adhesion.

The deep primer is ready to use and does not need to be mixed with any other product.

The coverage is approximately 2.2 lbs per 75.3 sq ft, depending on the absorbency of the surface.

Microcement and Concrete Effect should be applied at temperatures between 50°F and 75°F, with an ideal temperature of around 70°F for best results.

First, ensure the surface is stable, clean, dry, and free of dust or grease. Sand any uneven areas.

Priming:

• For tiled or non-absorbent walls, use PUTTY PRIMER.
• For absorbent walls, apply 2 coats of DEEP PRIMER.
  Allow the primer to dry completely before continuing.

Application: 

Apply Medium Grain Microcement in two layers, mixed with Liquid B and WB Pigment as recommended.
Let the first layer dry, sand imperfections, remove dust, and apply the second layer within 24 hours. If more than 24 hours pass, lightly sand and apply a thin layer of Liquid B before recoating.

Sealing (after 48 hours):
Seal with 2K PU Topcoat (2:1 mixing ratio). Apply two thin coats, with the second coat applied after 6–20 hours.

The surface is walkable after 12 hours and fully cured after approximately 6 days.

Make sure the floor is stable, load-bearing, clean, dry, and sanded smooth before starting.

Priming:

• Use 2K Leveling Compound for tiled or uneven floors.
• Use 2 coats of Deep Primer for absorbent, leveled floors.
• Use 2K Bonding Primer for non-absorbent, leveled floors.
  Allow the primer to dry completely to prevent cracking.

Application:
Apply Large Grain Microcement as the first layer, mixed with Liquid B and 2% WB Pigment (up to 10% for deeper colors). Let dry, sand imperfections, and remove dust.
Apply Medium Grain Microcement as the second layer within 24 hours. If more than 24 hours pass, lightly sand and apply a thin layer of Liquid B before recoating.

Sealing (after 48 hours):
Seal with 2K PU Topcoat (2:1 mixing ratio). Apply two thin coats, with the second coat applied after 6–20 hours.

The surface is walkable after 12 hours (at 75°F) and fully cured after approximately 6 days.

Make sure the furniture is stable, solid, clean, dry, and sanded smooth before starting.

Priming:

• Use PUTTY PRIMER if the surface needs leveling.
• Use 2K Bonding Primer for non-absorbent surfaces.
• Use DEEP PRIMER for absorbent surfaces.
  Allow the primer to dry completely to prevent cracking.

Application:
Apply Medium Grain Microcement as the first layer (mixing ratio 100:20 – e.g., 15.4 lbs Powder + 3 lbs Liquid B). Add 2% WB Pigment (up to 10% for deeper colors). Apply thinly with a trowel and let dry. Sand imperfections and remove dust.

Apply the second layer within 24 hours. If more than 24 hours pass, lightly sand and apply a thin layer of Liquid B before recoating.

Sealing (after 48 hours):
Seal with 2K PU Topcoat (2:1 mixing ratio). Apply two thin coats, with the second coat applied after 6–20 hours.

The surface is walkable after 12 hours (at 75°F) and fully cured after approximately 6 days.

At 70°F, the waiting time between coats is:

• Minimum: 8 hours
• Maximum: 24 hours

If you apply the second coat too early (before 8 hours):
The first layer may still contain excess moisture, which can lead to cracking.

If you apply the second coat too late (after 24 hours):
The first layer may be too dry and porous, allowing trapped air to rise into the fresh coat and cause bubbles.

If more than 24 hours have passed:

• Lightly sand the surface
• Apply a thin layer of Liquid B
• Apply the second coat while the Liquid B is still wet

Important in warmer temperatures (above 70°F):
Microcement dries faster, increasing the risk of bubbles. In warmer conditions:

• Sand as you approach 24 hours
• Apply a thin layer of Liquid B before recoating
• Slightly increase the amount of Liquid B in your mix to slow hardening and improve self-venting

Following the correct timing ensures a smooth, durable, and bubble-free finish.

At an ideal temperature of 70°F, Microcement dries and reaches initial mechanical strength within 8 hours. Full chemical curing is completed after approximately 7 days.

Ensure the surface is stable, dry, clean, and sanded smooth.

Mix Concrete Effect powder with water in a 5:2 ratio by weight (e.g., 2.2 lbs powder with 0.1 gal water). Add approximately 2% WB Pigment for color.

Apply evenly with a trowel.

• Working time: approx. 30 minutes
• Coverage: approx. 0.24 lb/sq ft per 1/32” thickness
• Drying time: approx. 24 hours

Mix in small batches and use cold water to extend working time.

Concrete Effect dries and reaches mechanical strength within approximately 20–24 hours.

However, full chemical curing is completed after about 7 days.

After mixing, you have approximately 30 minutes of working time with Concrete Effect, as it sets quickly.

The pot life is also around 30 minutes, so we recommend mixing in small batches to avoid material waste.

The PU Topcoat can be applied:

• At least 48 hours after the final layer of Microcement
• At least 24 hours after the final layer of Concrete Effect

This waiting time ensures the surface has properly dried before sealing.

No, 1K Concrete Effect is not suitable for floors.

For flooring applications, we recommend using Microcement, as it is more durable and better suited for high-traffic areas. We offer a dedicated Microcement flooring set for this purpose.

For maximum protection, we also recommend applying two coats of PU sealer on top of the Microcement.

Additionally, a suitable primer must be applied underneath the Microcement, depending on the type of surface.

Microcement is only waterproof when it is properly sealed with our 2K PU Topcoat.

Without the protective topcoat, Microcement is not fully water-resistant. For bathrooms, showers, wet rooms, or outdoor areas, applying the 2K PU Topcoat is essential to ensure long-term water protection and durability.

You can make Concrete Effect waterproof by applying two layers of 2K PU Topcoat.

The PU Topcoat seals the surface and provides protection against water and moisture.

Yes, priming is always required before applying Microcement.

Using the correct primer for your specific surface ensures proper adhesion, durability, and long-term performance.

If primer is not applied:

• The Microcement may not bond properly
• The surface can weaken or delaminate over time
• Porous substrates can release air, causing bubbles
• Cracking or detachment may occur

Priming reduces surface absorption, strengthens adhesion, and helps achieve a smooth, durable, and long-lasting finish.

No, you do not need a primer under Concrete Effect.

It is only important to ensure the surface is properly cleaned and degreased before application.

If you want to level tiled walls before applying Concrete Effect, you can either use Putty Primer or apply an additional layer of Concrete Effect to achieve a smooth surface.

Yes, Microcement can be applied in a pool — but it must be sealed with our 2K PU Topcoat.

Microcement alone is not waterproof and cannot be used in a pool without proper sealing.

We recommend applying at least two coats of 2K PU Topcoat and allowing it to fully cure before filling the pool with water.

Yes, you can apply Microcement outdoors.

Please note that sunlight and temperature fluctuations may slightly affect the final color. If possible, protect the surface from direct sun exposure while it is drying.

Make sure it does not rain during application and for at least 48 hours after applying Microcement. If the surface gets wet while drying, it may cause permanent stains.

If staining occurs, allow the surface to dry completely and apply a new layer of Microcement to cover the affected area.

No. When applying Microcement on floors, you must begin with a layer of Large Grain Microcement.

The large grain provides higher compressive strength and improved durability, creating a strong and stable base. The second layer is then applied using Medium Grain Microcement to achieve the final texture and finish.

No, Putty Primer cannot be used on floors, as it is not resistant to heavy wear and mechanical stress.

For flooring applications, please use the appropriate floor primer, such as 2K Leveling Compound or 2K Bonding Primer, depending on the substrate.

It is completely normal not to see a strong Microcement effect after just one layer.

The desired textured finish is typically achieved with two layers. The first layer acts as a base, while the second layer builds up the texture and enhances the overall visual effect.

For the best result, always apply the recommended two-layer system.

The maximum coating height of Concrete Effect is 4 inches per application process at 70°F.

The consumption of Concrete Effect is approximately 0.24 lb per sq ft per 1/32” layer thickness.

Yes, the finish you choose can slightly affect the appearance.

Applying 2K PU Topcoat Glossy may slightly darken the color of the Microcement.

Applying 2K PU Topcoat Matte will not significantly change the color and keeps the appearance closer to the original shade.

If your floor has an expansion joint, you have two options:

Option 1: Keep the expansion joint
You can keep the joint visible in the Microcement and seal it with silicone or acrylic after curing to prevent dust and dirt buildup.

Option 2: Fill and reinforce the joint
Clean the joint and remove any old filler. Fill it with ECO epoxy system mixed with quartz sand and allow it to cure. Then apply two thin coats of ECO epoxy resin over the area, embed a fiberglass mat (1 oz/sq ft) into the second coat, and apply another thin coat on top to secure it.

Proper reinforcement is essential. If the substrate is not stabilized correctly, cracking may occur in the finished Microcement surface.

No, if your floor is stable and not subject to movement, you do not need to add an additional edge strip or expansion joint before applying Microcement.

However, the existing substrate must be professionally constructed and comply with building regulations. A stable and properly built floor is essential to prevent cracking in the finished Microcement surface.

No. Microcement is a finishing layer and does not replace the required structural waterproofing.

Your bathroom must be properly sealed in accordance with building regulations before applying Microcement. Proper substrate waterproofing is essential to ensure long-term durability and prevent moisture damage.

When applying Microcement continuously across multiple rooms, it is recommended to create an expansion joint in the Microcement layer at door transitions.

After the Microcement has cured, cut a 2 mm joint at the doorway using a circular saw. This allows for slight movement between rooms and helps prevent cracking.

Seal the joint with silicone or acrylic to prevent dust and debris from entering and to maintain a clean finish.

It is important to wait until the concrete, screed, or leveling compound is fully dry and no longer moving before applying Microcement.

In some cases — especially in new buildings — concrete or screed can continue to move for up to one year. Applying Microcement too early may lead to cracking.

To determine the correct waiting time, consult the professional who installed the concrete or screed.

No, we do not recommend using Microcement to fill cracks.

Microcement is designed as a finishing topcoat, not a repair product. It should not be applied over a cracked or unstable substrate.

All cracks must be properly repaired and the floor stabilized before applying Microcement to prevent future damage or cracking in the finished surface.

No, not without proper preparation.

If the existing tiles are no longer watertight, they must be professionally waterproofed before applying Microcement. Microcement is a decorative and finishing layer and does not replace structural waterproofing.

Ensuring the substrate is fully sealed and compliant with building regulations is essential to prevent future moisture damage.

Yes, Microcement is applied with a trowel and can be used on vertical surfaces and sloped areas.

It is suitable for walls, stairs, and other inclined surfaces, provided the substrate is properly prepared and primed.

If you apply Microcement while the primer is still wet, the trapped moisture can migrate into the Microcement layer and cause cracking.

Always allow the primer to dry completely before applying Microcement to ensure proper adhesion and a durable finish.

No, our Microcement cannot be made self-leveling.

We do not recommend adding more Liquid B than the specified mixing ratio. Adding too much Liquid B may cause discoloration and negatively affect the final result.

Applying Microcement near a heat source, in a hot room, or in direct sunlight will cause it to harden faster.

If Microcement dries too quickly, it can lead to color variations and may even cause cracking.

For best results, apply Microcement in recommended temperature conditions and avoid direct heat or sun exposure during application and drying.

If the temperature is too cold, Microcement will take longer to cure.

At very low temperatures, it may not dry properly at all.

Cold conditions can also cause color variations in the finished surface.

For best results, apply Microcement within the recommended temperature range and keep the temperature stable and consistent during application and curing.

Yes, Microcement can be applied to a wooden floor — but only with proper preparation.

Wood is not dimensionally stable and can move over time. It is essential to stabilize and reinforce the wooden substrate before applying Microcement to prevent cracking in the finished surface.

Microcement can only be applied on a surface that is properly stabilized.

Warping or non-dimensionally stable surfaces must be reinforced and stabilized first. If the substrate continues to move, it will lead to cracks in the finished Microcement surface.

Failing to stabilize the surface before application will almost certainly result in cracking.

To achieve a seamless finish across multiple surfaces (such as wall and floor or wall and furniture), you must use the same grain size for the final layer.

If you use the same color but a different grain size on each surface, slight color variations may appear.

For a truly seamless wall-to-floor Microcement finish, always apply the same grain size in the top layer on all connected surfaces.

No, the same WB Pigment color can look slightly different depending on the Microcement grain size and when used in Concrete Effect.

Differences in grain size and texture influence how the color is reflected, so slight variations in shade are normal — especially when products are placed next to each other.

You can use the Floor Set on walls if you prefer, although it is more than what is technically needed for vertical surfaces. For walls, we recommend the Wall Set because it is more cost-effective and designed specifically for wall applications.

However, you cannot use the Wall Set on floors. Floors require the large grain size base layer that is only included in the Floor Set. This ensures proper strength, stability, and long-term durability under foot traffic.

The Concrete Effect grain size is slightly finer than Medium Grain Microcement.

This results in a smoother texture compared to Medium Microcement.

We offer Microcement in different grain sizes to suit your project needs:

• Large Grain: 80 µm
• Medium Grain: 330 µm

Each grain size creates a different texture and is used depending on the surface and desired finish.

For the best and most seamless result, we recommend applying each Microcement layer to the entire surface on the same day.

If you’re working on separate areas (for example, different walls), you can complete one wall one day and another wall on a different day without any issues.

However, patching or redoing only a small section of an already finished surface can be visible. Blending Microcement into an existing area requires advanced technique, and even then, slight variations in texture or shade may appear.

For the most consistent finish, full-surface application is always recommended.

Yes, Microcement can be applied to ceilings. 

We recommend using the Microcement Wall Set for ceiling applications, as it is designed for vertical surfaces and is easier to work with overhead.

Use masking tape and plastic drop cloths to protect drains and any areas you don’t want to coat with Microcement. Apply the tape carefully to create clean edges.

For the best result, remove the masking tape before the Microcement is completely dry. This helps achieve a sharp, clean edge and prevents the material from lifting or cracking along the tape line.

Yes, Microcement can be applied directly over bathroom tiles with the correct preparation.

For tiled walls:
Prime the surface with Putty Primer, then apply the Microcement Bathroom Set (Wall Option).

For tiled floors:
Prime with 2K Leveling Compound to create a stable, even base, then apply the Microcement Bathroom Set (Floor Option).

Proper preparation and priming are essential for strong adhesion and a durable, seamless finish.

If rain hits your Microcement before it is completely dry, let it dry fully first. Then sand the surface, apply a thin coat of Liquid B, and reapply a new layer of Microcement.

Rain on drying Microcement can cause stains that will not disappear after drying, so refinishing the surface is usually necessary.

No, Microcement cannot be applied over vinyl. The vinyl must be completely removed before applying Microcement to ensure proper adhesion and long-term durability.

When Microcement gets wet, it can temporarily appear darker or stained — especially if it has not yet been sealed.

Let the surface dry completely. If the marks disappear once dry, simply apply 2 layers of 2K PU Topcoat to properly seal and protect it. If the stains remain after drying, lightly sand the surface and apply a new thin layer of Microcement, then seal it with 2 layers of 2K PU Topcoat once dry.

No, Microcement must not be applied to a wet substrate.

Applying Microcement on a damp or wet surface can cause cracking or bubbles as the substrate dries and releases moisture. Always ensure the surface is completely dry and properly prepared before application.

Yes, Concrete Effect can be applied on shower walls when properly sealed with our PU Topcoat. Proper sealing is essential to protect the surface from moisture and ensure long-term durability.

No, we do not recommend applying Microcement or Concrete Effect inside a moving vehicle.

The constant vibration and movement of the vehicle can cause the material to shift, which may result in cracks over time.

Yes, Concrete Effect can be applied to furniture.

However, please note that Microcement is more resistant and durable. For furniture exposed to heavy wear and tear, we recommend using Microcement for better long-term performance.

The 2K Bonding Primer is a two-component product.

• Drying time: 8 to 24 hours
• Full cure time: 7 days

Always allow proper drying before applying the next layer.

No, we do not recommend applying Microcement on top of bitumen.

Bitumen is not structural or load-bearing, which can lead to poor adhesion and cracking over time. Always apply Microcement to a stable, solid substrate.

No, the 2K Leveling Compound is designed for floors only and should not be used on walls.

No, the 1K Primer is not suitable for use under Microcement or Concrete Effect.

We do not offer additional pre-made Microcement or Concrete Effect sets beyond the ones listed on our website.

However, you can order Microcement or Concrete Effect without pigment and mix it with any of our WB Pigments to create your desired color.

The 2K Leveling Compound has a curing time of 24 hours.

Allow it to cure before applying the next layer.

For both Microcement and Concrete Effect, the WB Pigment amount is calculated based on the total mixture, not just the powder.

• Microcement: Add approximately 2% WB Pigment to the combined weight of Microcement powder + Liquid B.
• Concrete Effect: Add approximately 2% WB Pigment to the total mixture of Concrete Effect + water.

Orders include slightly extra pigment if a more intense color is desired. For example, for 11 lbs Concrete Effect + 0.5 gallon water, we supply 2 × 100 g WB Pigment, which equals approximately 2.8% pigment ratio.

The working time of the Putty Primer is approximately 30 minutes.

Be sure to apply it within this time frame for best results.

The Deep Primer is a ready-to-use liquid and does not have a specific working time.

It can be applied directly without mixing.

The working time of the 2K Bonding Primer is approximately 90 minutes.

Make sure to apply it within this timeframe after mixing the two components.

The slip resistance of Microcement depends on the grain size, application technique, and the type of sealant used.

In wet conditions, Microcement typically has a slip resistance in the range of R11 to R12 according to the DIN 51130 classification.

No, we do not recommend walking on Microcement with spiked shoes.

Spikes can damage or alter the surface finish and leave permanent marks.

Yes, we recommend lightly sanding the tiles before applying Putty Primer.

Sanding helps improve adhesion and ensures a stronger bond between the tiles and the primer.

Yes, Microcement can be applied over underfloor heating.

Make sure the heating system is properly installed and turned off during application and drying to avoid cracking.

No, we do not recommend sealing Microcement or Concrete Effect with epoxy resin.

For proper protection and performance, we recommend using our PU Topcoat system instead.

Yes, both Microcement and Concrete Effect can be painted over.

No primer is required. Make sure the surface is clean, dry, and fully cured before applying paint.

Concrete Effect cannot be peeled off, but it can be sanded down until smooth and then painted over.

Proper sanding will create an even surface ready for a new finish.

No, glitter cannot be added to Concrete Effect or Microcement. It would be possible to add glitter to the PU Topcoat to achieve a light shimmer only.

If you are looking for a glittery or metallic finish, we recommend using our Micrometal system instead.

The maximum depth allowed with the 2K Leveling Compound is 1 3/16”.

Do not exceed this thickness in a single application.

We recommend waiting 24 hours after applying Putty Primer before applying Microcement.

This ensures proper drying and optimal adhesion.

No, Microcement should not be used to level or fill grout lines.

It is important to properly level the grout joints first using a suitable leveling product. Microcement is a finishing layer and should be applied to an even, stable surface.

No, fiberglass mesh is not required on stable, non-moving floors.

Mesh is only necessary when reinforcing an unstable substrate or when covering existing expansion joints (if you do not want the joint to transfer through the Microcement). For solid, stable flooring, no mesh reinforcement is needed.

Bubbles in Microcement can appear in either the first or second layer.

If they occur in the first layer, the substrate was likely too porous or not properly primed.
If they appear in the second layer, the first layer may have been too dry, allowing trapped air to rise into the fresh coat.
Bubbles can also form if the Microcement was mixed too quickly and did not have time to vent.

How to fix it:
Once dry, sand the surface smooth, apply a thin coat of Liquid B, and then apply a new thin layer of Microcement.

How to prevent bubbles when mixing:

• Use an electric drill on the lowest speed setting.
• Keep the mixing paddle fully below the surface.
• Avoid fast or up-and-down movements.
• Let the mixture rest for up to 5 minutes after mixing to release trapped air before application.

If you notice small clumps in your Microcement or Concrete Effect during application, don’t worry.

Simply go over the unmixed clumps with your trowel and smooth them out until they disappear. With proper pressure and technique, the material will blend evenly into the surface.

Color differences in Microcement can happen for several reasons:

• Adding slightly more or less WB pigment can change the final color.
• Applying the Microcement thicker or thinner will affect the shade.
• Different grain sizes naturally have slight color variations.
• If the surface dries too quickly (sun or high heat), the color may change.
• Adding too much Liquid B can alter the tone.
• If the WB pigment is not mixed thoroughly, uneven color can appear.

For the most consistent result, always measure carefully, mix thoroughly, and apply evenly under stable conditions.

Black lines on Microcement are usually burn marks caused by using the wrong trowel.

To avoid this, use a rounded-edge trowel with a maximum thickness of 1/8". The correct trowel helps prevent surface burns and ensures a smooth, clean finish.

It’s normal for Microcement to look slightly uneven or patchy immediately after application. This is due to the natural drying process, the size of the surface area, and variations in layer thickness.

Thicker areas take longer to dry, which can temporarily affect the appearance of the color.

After applying two coats, Microcement typically requires 24–48 hours to dry fully. Once completely dry, the true and final color will become visible.

For best results, allow the surface to cure fully before evaluating the final appearance.

The appearance of Microcement can vary depending on the lighting conditions.

In bright rooms with cooler light sources, the color may appear lighter and cooler in tone.

In rooms with warm lighting, the color can look warmer and slightly more yellow.

Lighting plays an important role in how the final shade is perceived, so we recommend testing a sample in your actual space before making a final decision.

If the Microcement is too thick, you can carefully add a small amount of Liquid B to adjust the consistency.

Recommended mixing ratios (by weight):

• Large Grain Microcement: 100:25 (maximum 100:28)
• Medium Grain Microcement: 100:20 (maximum 100:23)

Please note that adding more Liquid B than recommended may slightly lighten the final color of the Microcement.

Store Microcement in a dry area where the temperature stays above 50°F.

• Do not allow Liquid B to freeze — if it freezes, it cannot be used.
• Keep opened bags of Microcement powder tightly sealed to prevent moisture absorption.

Exposure to cold or humidity can damage the product and make it unusable.

Microcement (Medium and Large Grain) is supplied as a two-component system:

• Component A (Powder): 15.4 lbs
• Component B (Liquid Resin): 4.4 lbs

Both components must be mixed together before application.

Concrete Effect is supplied in 11 lb bags.

Yes, you can!

We offer a Microcement Sample Set that includes Medium Grain Microcement and up to 10 custom colors of your choice.

It’s the perfect way to test different colors and textures to find the ideal Microcement finish for your project.

Yes, you can!

We offer the option to purchase individual components of the Microcement system. You can order:

• Liquid B (resin) separately
• Microcement Powder (A) in two grain sizes: Medium or Large

This is ideal if you only need to restock specific materials for your project.

Yes, we do!

We provide a wide range of professional tools and equipment for working with Microcement, including rollers, trowels, brushes, mixing buckets, and complete application sets.

Whether you're working on floors or walls, we have the right tools to support your project.

Sand the tiles, tape off areas you do not want to paint, and clean and degrease the surface with EPODEX Pre-Cleaner. Remove any silicone joints before painting.

Mix Component A (resin) and Component B (hardener) in a 4:1 ratio (for example: 20 fl oz resin + 5 fl oz hardener). Do not mix large quantities at once, as Tile Paint 2K cures quickly. Mix thoroughly and add WB Pigment (Ultra White is already pre-colored).

Apply with a roller in a criss-cross pattern, allow about 12 hours at 70°F between coats, and apply at least two coats for full coverage. 

Once dry, you can optionally use the EPODEX grout pen to retrace the grout lines.

Yes, Tile Paint 2K can be applied on indoor floors and stairs.

Yes, Tile Paint 2K can be used inside a shower or in areas with frequent water contact. However, it is not suitable for permanent water contact, such as inside a pool.

Yes, Tile Paint 2K can be applied to other smooth, surfaces such as plastic and marble. It is important to sand the surface first to ensure proper adhesion.

No. Tile Paint 2K is for indoor use only. Direct outdoor exposure can cause the paint to fade in sunlight and eventually peel. For outdoor surfaces, use 2K PU Paint.

We recommend applying two coats for proper coverage and durability.

The average consumption is 0.7 oz per sq ft per coat. The quantities shown on our Tile Paint 2K page are calculated for one coat.

Wait at least 12 hours and no more than 48 hours between coats at 70°F and 65% relative humidity. If more than 48 hours pass, lightly sand the first coat before applying the next one to ensure proper bonding.

Tile Paint 2K is touch dry after about 12 hours at 70°F and 65% relative humidity. Floors can be walked on after 24 hours, and the coating is fully dry and cured after 7 days. Lower temperatures or higher humidity will increase drying and curing times.

The recommended working, drying, and curing temperature is 70°F. The paint components should be at least 65°F. Do not apply, dry, or cure Tile Paint 2K below 60°F or above 75°F.

The recommended relative humidity for application, drying, and curing is 65%.

Degrease, sand, and clean the tiles before painting. Use coarse sandpaper (P80–P120) and sand evenly so that light surface scratches are visible.

Do not use a primer. Simply sand and degrease the tiles with our Pre-Cleaner before applying Tile Paint 2K.

No, you do not need to sand the tiles until they are matte. It is important to sand them uniformly until light surface scratches are visible.

No, we do not recommend applying Tile Paint 2K over old paint, as adhesion may be reduced. For best results, sand and remove the old coating before application.

There is no exact mixing time, as it depends on how fast and how you mix. The important thing is to mix until the paint is fully homogeneous.

No. As soon as Component A (resin) and Component B (hardener) are mixed, a chemical reaction (polymerization) starts and the product begins to harden. This happens even if you close the lid tightly or try to store it.

Once Tile Paint 2K has cured, it cannot be turned liquid again. For this reason, only mix small quantities at a time.

Tile Paint 2K has a satin finish, while the Ultra White and Pastel versions have a matte finish.

For a glossy white or pastel finish, we recommend using 2K PU Paint. For a matte look, choose Tile Paint Ultra White or Pastel, or use matte 2K PU Paint on tiles.

Remove the masking tape while the paint is still wet. If you wait until the paint is fully dry, the coating may chip.

Yes, Tile Paint 2K can be applied over traditional tile grout and acrylic joints.

However, it does not stick to silicone. Silicone joints must be removed before painting. Painting next to silicone can cause the coating to separate, leave unpainted gaps, and lead to adhesion problems or peeling if water gets behind the paint.

Uncured Tile Paint 2K can be removed with acetone. Once cured, it can only be removed by sanding.

No, Tile Paint 2K is not designed to seal tiles. It is open to diffusion, meaning moisture from behind the tiles can still pass through, and standing water over time may soak into the tiles.

No, Tile Paint 2K cannot be used to fill cracks or gaps. It is a rolled-on paint, not a filling material.

No, we do not recommend spraying Tile Paint 2K.

Tile Paint 2K is heat resistant up to 140°F.

Yes, Tile Paint 2K can be applied on underfloor heating. Turn on the heating once the coating is no longer tacky and leave it on for 7 days.

You can order Tile Paint 2K without pigment and add the WB Pigment of your choice. Custom colors cannot be pre-mixed at our warehouse, but you can mix different WB Pigments yourself to create a custom shade.

No, unpigmented Tile Paint 2K is milky due to its binders and fillers and is not suitable as a transparent coating. For a clear finish, we recommend using 2K PU Topcoat.

The WB Pigments themselves are not pastel. If you ordered a pastel Tile Paint 2K, you will receive a regular WB Pigment together with a pastel paint base. The word “pastel” should be indicated on your Tile Paint.

Yes, you can either color the mixed resin-hardener blend or dye Component A in advance. If you color Component A beforehand, make sure to take this into account when adding and mixing Component B.

Adding more WB Pigment will make the color darker than shown on our website.

Adhesion problems can have different causes. Tile Paint 2K may peel if the surface was not properly sanded and cleaned or if it was applied over silicone joints.

No, we do not recommend adding metallic pigment to Tile Paint 2K.

Tile Paint 2K is made to be durable. While we cannot give an exact lifespan, with proper application and care it can last for years and should not require frequent touch-ups.

We recommend using a ruler to help create straight lines.

Here is what is included in the TILE PAINT 2K accessory set: 

• 1x Nitrile Gloves
• 1x Masking Tape 2” x 164ft
• 2x Sandpaper P180 and Sanding Block
• 1x PRE-CLEANER Degreaser & Cleaner
• 1x Stir Stick
• 1x Flat Brush 2”
• 2x Foam Rollers 4” + handle
• 1x Foam Roller 10” + handle
• 1x Mixing Bucket 3.1gal
• 1x Sanding Block - Made of Cork
• 1x Scraper grid 11 1/32 x 15 5/32
• 1x Plastic Drop Cloth - Large - 495sqft

No, Tile Paint 2K does not need to be sealed.

We recommend cleaning Tile Paint 2K with mild surfactant cleaning agents.

Use a brush only for corners and hard-to-reach grout areas, applying a thin layer. Then use a roller over the whole surface to even out the thickness. Do not let brush areas dry before rolling.

The color changes as the paint dries. Make sure to add the WB Pigment and mix it well. The color in the bucket is not representative of the final dried color.

Wet paint looks glossier and reflects light differently. As the water evaporates during drying, the true color becomes visible.

Yes, Tile Paint 2K will cover sanding marks left by P80 grit and finer.

No, we do not recommend diluting Tile Paint 2K, as it will affect coverage.

Yes, we recommend wearing an FFP2 mask while mixing and applying Tile Paint 2K.

Never pour Tile Paint 2K components down the drain or into rainwater. Empty containers can be disposed of at your local recycling center.

No, you must always follow the correct 4:1 mixing ratio (A:B) or the paint will not cure properly. Adding more hardener will not make the paint cure faster.

For example: 20 fl oz Component A + 5 fl oz Component B.

The pot life and processing time of 38 oz Tile Paint 2K at 70°F is about 90 minutes.

Component A is available in 38 fl oz and 1 gal.
Component B is available in 10 fl oz and 38 fl oz.

No, Tile Paint 2K is low in VOCs, which means it has minimal odor compared to solvent-based paints.

Coverage depends on how much product you apply, but under normal use one bottle is sufficient for approximately 107 sq ft.

Yes, the Tile Paint 2K Component B (hardener) is the same for Brilliant, Ultra White, and Pastel Component A bases.

Yes, Tile Paint 2K is an epoxy resin–based paint.

Tile Paint 2K is open to diffusion, which helps prevent mold from forming behind the paint. It can be used in high-humidity areas, and we especially recommend epoxy-based Tile Paint 2K for showers and floors because it is more resistant to moisture and wear.

Please note that Tile Paint 2K is not antibacterial.

Tile Paint 2K keeps the same slip resistance as the original surface. For additional slip resistance, you can add microglass beads to create a non-slip finish.

Depending on the desired effect, add between 5 g and 35 g per 2.2 lbs of Tile Paint 2K. Please note that adding microglass beads may change the color of the paint.

We recommend waiting 3 days before using the shower and at least 7 days before cleaning it.

No, it is not possible to achieve a marble effect with Tile Paint 2K.

No, we have not tested the compatibility and do not recommend using crackle glaze over Tile Paint 2K.

Yes, tile paint 2k is open to diffusion. 

We do not recommend using our paints on flexible PVC floors. On rigid PVC, it is possible to sand the surface and apply Tile Paint 2K.

Yes, ready-to-use Tile Paint 2K is VOC free.

Scratch resistance issues can have different causes. The paint may scratch easily if it has not reached full chemical curing or if the tiles were not sanded properly before application.

Coverage issues can have different causes. 

The fillers and binders in Component A may settle at the bottom over time, leaving more water at the top. Before mixing, turn Component A upside down for a while and shake it well, then mix with Component B in the correct 4:1 ratio.

When unopened and stored at room temperature in a dark place, Tile Paint 2K can be kept for up to 1 year. Once opened, close the lid tightly and store it at room temperature in the dark; it can be kept for up to 6 months. Exposure to heat, cold, or sunlight may reduce shelf life

Work at around 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, and level. 

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

Before mixing, divide the resin and hardener between the two colors you plan to use. Mix each batch in a 2:1 ratio (resin to hardener), transfer to a clean container, and mix again. 

Add your main color to the first batch, pour it onto the surface, and spread evenly with a squeegee and foam roller (recommended thickness: about 1/16”).

Then mix and tint the second batch in the same way and apply it wet-on-wet as a highlight color to create your desired effect.

The surface can be touched on after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70 °F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

Recommended quantity of color pigment/paste:
Metallic powder: 1 g of pigment per 2 fl.oz of epoxy or 70 g (2.5 oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy
RAL Solid Color Paste: 1 g of color paste per 3 fl.oz of epoxy or 40 g (1.5 oz) of color paste per gallon of epoxy

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free. 

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

For the main coat, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again. 

Add the EP Colour Paste (1 g of color paste per 3 fl.oz of epoxy or 40 g (1.5 oz) of color paste per gallon of epoxy) and stir thoroughly. 

Pour the mixture onto the surface immediately and spread it evenly with a squeegee and foam roller.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70 °F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

1. Apply masking tape underneath the edge to catch drips.
2. Keep a small amount of mixed epoxy in your cup and let it thicken slightly.
3. Watch it closely, as epoxy can heat up while sitting in the container.
4. Once it reaches a thick, honey-like (gel) consistency, apply it to the edges.
5. Allow it to set, then remove the masking tape before the drips fully harden.

This method helps the epoxy stay in place and creates a smooth, even edge finish.

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free.

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

For the main coat, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again.

Divide the mixed epoxy into separate cups and tint each portion according to your Nevada design. For a classic Nevada look, plan approximately: 18% Platinum Silver, 18% Sapphire Blue, 18% Bronze Brown, 18% Havana Bronze, 18% Pearl White, and 10% Signal White.
Use about 1.5% metallic pigment (1 g per 2 fl.oz. or 70 g per gallon) or 1% color paste (40 g per gallon).

Pour the colored mixtures into one larger cup without re-mixing, then pour onto the surface to create the Nevada effect. Spread evenly with a squeegee and foam roller if needed.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70°F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free.

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

For the main coat, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again.

Divide the mixed epoxy into separate cups and tint each portion according to your Ammonit design. For a classic Ammonit look, plan approximately: 23.75% Dark Brown, 23.75% Bronze Red, 23.75% Bronze Brown, 23.75% Pearl White, and 5% Signal White.
Use about 1.5% metallic pigment (1 g per 2 fl.oz. or 70 g per gallon) or 1% color paste (40 g per gallon).

Pour the colored mixtures into one larger cup without re-mixing, then pour onto the surface to create the Ammonit effect. Spread evenly if needed.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70°F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free.

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

For the main coat, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again.

Divide the mixed epoxy into separate cups and tint each portion according to your Rust Gray design. For a classic Rust Gray look, plan approximately: 25% Satin Gray, 25% Flame Copper, 25% Bronze Brown, and 25% Pearl White.
Use about 1.5% metallic pigment (1 g per 2 fl.oz. or 70 g per gallon) or 1% color paste (40 g per gallon).

Pour the colored mixtures into one larger cup without re-mixing, then pour onto the surface to create the Rust Gray effect. Spread evenly if needed.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70°F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free.

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

For the main coat, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again.

Divide the mixed epoxy into separate cups and tint each portion according to your Moon design. For a classic Moon look, plan approximately: 30% Satin Gray, 30% Platinum Silver, 30% Pearl White, and 10% Signal White.
Use about 1.5% metallic pigment (1 g per 2 fl.oz. or 70 g per gallon) or 1% color paste (40 g per gallon).

Pour the colored mixtures into one larger cup without re-mixing, then pour onto the surface to create the Moon effect. Spread evenly if needed.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70°F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free.

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

For the main coat, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again.

Divide the mixed epoxy into separate cups and tint each portion according to your Spice Brown design. For a classic Spice Brown look, plan approximately: 30% Bronze Brown, 30% Havana Bronze, 30% Pearl White, and 10% Jet Black.
Use about 1.5% metallic pigment (1 g per 2 fl.oz. or 70 g per gallon) or 1% color paste (40 g per gallon).

Pour the colored mixtures into one larger cup without re-mixing, then pour onto the surface to create the Spice Brown effect. Spread evenly if needed.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70°F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free.

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

For the main coat, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again.

Divide the mixed epoxy into separate cups and tint each portion according to your Onyx design. For a classic Onyx look, plan approximately: 45% Intense Anthracite, 45% Pearl White, 5% Jet Black, and 5% Signal White.
Use about 1.5% metallic pigment (1 g per 2 fl.oz. or 70 g per gallon) or 1% color paste (40 g per gallon).

Pour the colored mixtures into one larger cup without re-mixing, then pour onto the surface to create the Onyx effect. Spread evenly if needed.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70°F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free.

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

For the main coat, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again.

Divide the mixed epoxy into separate cups and tint each portion according to your Granit design. For a classic Granit look, plan approximately: 45% Platinum Silver, 45% Pearl White, 5% Jet Black, and 5% Signal White.
Use about 1.5% metallic pigment (1 g per 2 fl.oz. or 70 g per gallon) or 1% color paste (40 g per gallon).

Pour the colored mixtures into one larger cup without re-mixing, then pour onto the surface to create the Granit effect. Spread evenly if needed.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70°F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free.

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

For the main coat, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again.

Divide the mixed epoxy into separate cups and tint each portion according to your Rust Black design. For a classic Rust Black look, plan approximately: 45% Bronze Brown, 45% Pearl White, and 10% Jet Black.
Use about 1.5% metallic pigment (1 g per 2 fl.oz. or 70 g per gallon) or 1% color paste (40 g per gallon).

Pour the colored mixtures into one larger cup without re-mixing, then pour onto the surface to create the Rust Black effect. Spread evenly if needed.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70°F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free. 

First, tint the included 1K Primer with the supplied WB Pigment (only add the pigment to the primer — never to the epoxy resin). Add 100 g (3.5 oz) WB pigment to 0.33 gal 1K Primer.

Mix well, roll it onto the surface, and let it dry for 8–12 hours. 

Then apply the Marble Effect Spray to create the desired veining and allow it to dry.

For the main coat, mix the clear resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again. 

Pour the mixture onto the surface immediately and spread it evenly with a squeegee and foam roller.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70 °F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

No, we do not offer marbling powder.

We offer a marble spray for creating marble effects instead.

Epoxy countertops are designed to be long-lasting and durable.

Over time, minor surface scratches may appear, but they can usually be polished away to restore the finish.

No, the Countertop Set is designed for layers up to 1/16" thick.

If you plan to pour thicker layers, we recommend purchasing the epoxy and primer separately. This allows you to order the correct amount of epoxy without ending up with too much primer.

Yes, the 1K Primer is included in all Epoxy Resin Countertop Sets, except for the transparent version.

No. Once the resin and hardener are mixed, the chemical reaction begins immediately and the epoxy cannot be stored.

It must be used within its stated pot life.

Alcohol ink can be used in epoxy for decorative effects in layers up to 1/2" thick (not recommended for deep pours).

To create the effect:

1. Pour your mixed resin while it is still liquid.
2. Add a few drops of your chosen colored alcohol ink.
3. Add white alcohol ink on top of the colored drops.

The white ink pushes the color downward, creating unique patterns and cells. The more white you add, the deeper and stronger the effect will be.

For best results, test your technique on a small sample first.

Yes, you can use pigments or dyes from another brand, provided they are not water-based.

We strongly recommend testing them in a small batch first, as some colors may shift or react differently after curing.

For the most consistent and predictable results, it’s best to use colorants that have been specifically tested with the epoxy system.

No, they are different.

Transparent drop-in dyes create a uniform, transparent color throughout the epoxy.

Alcohol inks are used to create decorative effects, such as the petri dish pattern. They do not produce an even, uniform color.

• Wear an FFP2 mask while working.
• Use nitrile gloves to protect your skin.
• Do not use latex gloves, as epoxy can pass through latex.

Always work in a well-ventilated area and avoid direct skin contact.

Using expired epoxy can result in improper curing or the resin not curing at all.

For reliable results and full performance, always use epoxy within its recommended shelf life.

• Fully cured epoxy can be disposed of with regular household waste or at a local recycling center (check your local regulations).
• If you have unmixed resin or hardener, mix them together and allow them to fully cure before disposal.
• Never pour liquid resin or hardener down the drain or into rainwater systems.
• Empty containers can typically be taken to a local recycling center.

Always follow your local waste disposal guidelines.

Yes, you can paint over fully cured epoxy.

For best results, wait until the epoxy has reached full chemical cure, then lightly sand the surface to ensure proper adhesion before applying paint.

You can use our 2K PU paint or an acrylic-based paint to coat the epoxy surface.

No, they are different.

UV resin cures under a UV lamp. We do not sell UV resin.

UV-resistant resin is a standard epoxy that contains special UV additives to help reduce yellowing over time. Our epoxy resin offers very high UV resistance.

Our epoxy resins are self-leveling and low viscosity. We do not offer a high-viscosity version. 

If needed, you can let the mixed epoxy sit briefly to thicken before application. However, monitor it closely, as epoxy can heat up quickly while thickening.

No, we do not offer a matte epoxy resin.

To achieve a matte finish, you can either sand the cured surface without polishing or apply a matte PU Topcoat.

Yes, epoxy can be applied to furniture.

However, keep in mind that vertical surfaces can be challenging, as epoxy is self-leveling and may run or drip on upright areas.

Yes, you can apply our 2K PU Topcoat (glossy) over cured epoxy to achieve a high-gloss finish. 

If you don’t want to polish your sanded epoxy surface, simply apply the 2K PU Topcoat to restore the shine without polishing.

Yes. Once fully chemically cured, epoxy resin is resistant to water and humidity changes.

Make sure the resin has completely cured before exposing it to moisture.

Epoxy resin adheres to most surfaces and materials.

However, it does not bond well to silicone or polypropylene.

For best adhesion, lightly sand (roughen) smooth surfaces before applying epoxy.

Once fully cured, epoxy resin is resistant to most common chemicals, petrol, and oil.

However, resistance can vary depending on the specific substance. Some acids or strong chemicals may affect or dull the surface. We recommend performing a small test in advance to ensure compatibility.

Harsh cleaners can also reduce the shine over time. If this happens, the surface can be polished to restore gloss or protected with a 2K PU topcoat.

No, our epoxy resins are not pre-colored.

This allows you to customize the color and effect to suit your specific project.

It is not possible to completely prevent epoxy from yellowing over time, especially with UV exposure.

Adding colorants or pigments can help hide yellowing in clear resin. A 2K PU topcoat can slow down and minimize yellowing, but it will not stop it completely.

To prevent metallic pigment from sinking, apply it when the epoxy has reached its gel stage.

At this point, the resin has a thick, gel-like consistency, which helps hold the pigment in place and maintain your desired pattern.

We do not recommend using a bonding primer under the epoxy kit.

To achieve a smooth, level finish over tiles, either:

• Apply enough epoxy to fill the tile joints, or
• Use a suitable self-leveling compound first to create an even surface before applying epoxy.

White lumps or a cloudy, milky appearance are usually caused by crystallization of the resin component due to cold storage or transport. You may also notice white residue on the rim or bottom of the container.

No need to worry — this is reversible.

To fix it:

1. Place the sealed resin container in a hot water bath for a few minutes.
2. If needed, leave it longer and gently increase the water temperature.
   (Alternatively, place the container on a heater and shake it occasionally.)
3. Once clear again, let the resin cool to room temperature before use.

After that, it can be processed as usual.

Our epoxy resins are self-venting, meaning most bubbles rise to the surface on their own.

Common causes of bubbles:

• Overheating during curing
• Low temperatures (resin becomes too thick)
• Improper mixing
• Pouring onto unsealed or porous surfaces
• Air released from inclusions or wood

Epoxy naturally generates heat while curing. Too much heat can create bubbles, while low temperatures make it harder for trapped air to escape.

How to prevent bubbles:

• Mix slowly and thoroughly
• Don’t let the resin sit too long in the mixing container
• Seal porous surfaces with a thin layer of resin before the main pour

How to remove bubbles:

• While the resin is still liquid or gel-like, gently apply heat (hairdryer, heat gun, or torch) at a safe distance and keep it moving.
• If fully cured, sand the surface to open the bubbles and apply a new layer of epoxy.

Silicone or polypropylene containers are ideal for mixing epoxy.

Epoxy does not bond to these materials, so once the residue has cured, you can easily remove it and reuse the container.

Yes, once fully chemically cured, our epoxy resins are suitable for contact with food.

Always allow the resin to reach full cure before using it in food-contact applications.

White streaks are usually amine blush (carbamates). This happens when uncured epoxy reacts with moisture in the air. It is more common in high humidity, low temperatures, very thin layers, or when applied over water-based coatings that are not fully dry.

How to fix it:

• Let the epoxy fully cure.
• Wash the surface with white vinegar to remove the blush.
• If needed, lightly sand the surface.
• For a glossy finish, sand progressively (e.g., up to P3,000 or higher) and polish.

After removal, you can apply a PU topcoat or an additional epoxy layer to reseal and protect the surface.

Curing problems can have several causes. Epoxy requires the correct mixing ratio, thorough mixing, and proper temperature to cure fully.

Common reasons include:

• Incorrect mixing ratio
• Not mixed until completely streak-free
• Not transferring to a clean container and mixing again (no double-mixing)
• Scraping unmixed material from the sides or bottom into the pour
• Measuring inaccurately or mixing by volume instead of weight (if weight is required)
• Working temperature too low
• Applying the resin too thinly
• Adding too much or incompatible pigment

If the resin is still soft or sticky, try increasing the room temperature to support curing. If there is no improvement after 24–48 hours, the uncured material usually needs to be removed before applying a new, properly mixed layer.

Sticky or soft spots are usually caused by improper mixing or an incorrect mixing ratio. If the resin and hardener are not fully combined, some areas may not cure properly.

Common causes:

• Not mixing until completely streak-free
• Incorrect mixing ratio
• Not transferring to a clean container and mixing again (no double-mixing)
• Scraping unmixed material from the sides or bottom of the cup into the pour
• Very thin or uneven areas

How to fix it:
Remove all uncured material completely. Clean the surface with a suitable solvent (e.g., acetone) and let it evaporate fully. Then sand the area, remove dust, and apply a new layer of correctly measured and thoroughly mixed epoxy.

No, we do not offer bio-sourced epoxy resin.

No, we do not recommend using Deep Primer under epoxy resin.

Fully cured epoxy resin can only be removed mechanically, typically by sanding or grinding.

If the resin has been absorbed into the substrate, complete removal will also require removing the affected portion of the underlying material.

No, we do not recommend placing epoxy items in the dishwasher, even after full chemical curing.

High temperatures and harsh detergents can damage the surface over time.

No, we do not recommend putting your epoxy resin in the microwave.

Yes, epoxy resin naturally shrinks by about 1% during the curing process. In larger projects, such as river tables or deep pours, this shrinkage may be more noticeable.

Depending on the mold material, the effect can vary. In rigid molds (e.g., wood), the resin may sink slightly at the corners. In flexible molds (e.g., silicone), the edges may rise a little while the center sinks slightly.

This shrinkage is a normal part of the chemical curing process and cannot be completely avoided. If necessary, the surface can be corrected by sanding or by applying an additional thin layer of resin.

For best results, we recommend using EP Color Paste within 6 months after opening.

Before starting a large project or throwing it away, simply mix a small amount of the opened EP Color Paste with a little epoxy resin to test it.

Our epoxy resin is not classified as hazardous to health under GHS08 and is non-toxic under GHS06.

You may use our epoxy to create decorative items for aquariums. However, the resin must be fully chemically cured before placing it in the aquarium.

We do not recommend building the aquarium itself entirely from epoxy resin.

The density of our epoxy resin is approximately 9.2 lb per gallon.

To convert:

• Gallons = Pounds × 0.11
• Pounds = Gallons × 9.2

This helps you easily calculate the required volume or weight for your project.

Pot life is measured at 70°F and depends on the mixed quantity. Larger batches and higher temperatures will shorten the pot life.

• ECO: 25 minutes (100 g / 3.5 fl oz)
• PRO: 65 minutes (145 g / 5 fl oz)
• PRO+: 6 hours (22 lbs)

Always mix only the amount you can use within the stated working time.

No, we do not sell silicone molds or pre-made molds. 

However, if you’re working on a larger project, such as a custom table, we offer everything you need to build your own mold, including release tape, silicone, and other essential tools. We also carry RTV Silicone Molding, a 2-part liquid silicone that allows you to create your own reusable molds.

Epoxy resin can crack for several reasons, most commonly due to overheating or stress during curing.

Overheating may occur if the pour is too thick, the room temperature is too high, too much resin is mixed at once, or the resin remains in the mixing container for too long before pouring. Since epoxy generates heat during the curing process, excessive heat buildup can lead to cracking. Overheating may also cause issues such as uneven surfaces, yellowing, or bubbles.

Cracks can also develop if the substrate is unstable or, in projects like river tables, if the wood was not properly sealed.

If cracking has occurred, the damaged area can usually be repaired by filling it with fresh epoxy. After curing, only a fine hairline may remain, which is typically barely noticeable.

Craters in cured epoxy can have several causes. They often occur when too little resin was applied, when the layer was too thin, or when the substrate was very porous and absorbed too much material.

If the surface was not properly sealed or primed beforehand, air or absorbed resin can create small voids during curing.

To repair craters, lightly sand the surface if necessary and apply a new layer of epoxy. We recommend a minimum thickness of about 1/16" (approx. 1.5 mm) to ensure proper coverage.

Yellowing in epoxy resin can have different causes.

If the resin turned yellow immediately after curing, it may have overheated during the curing process. This can happen if the layer was too thick, the room temperature was too high, too much resin was mixed at once, or the resin sat too long in the mixing container before pouring. Since epoxy generates heat while curing, excessive heat buildup can lead to discoloration.

If the yellowing appeared over time, it is usually caused by UV exposure. All epoxy resins will yellow to some degree when exposed to sunlight. UV-stabilised systems are more resistant, but no epoxy is completely UV-proof. Even indirect sunlight through windows can cause gradual yellowing.

To reduce the risk of yellowing, avoid excessive heat during curing and protect finished projects from prolonged UV exposure.

Our products are precisely measured and automatically filled to ensure the correct quantity. However, it is normal for some material to remain on the inner walls of the container after pouring. This can make it appear as though less product is inside.

Thicker resin flows more slowly, especially at lower temperatures, which can increase the amount that sticks to the container.

For best results, allow the resin to reach room temperature (around 70°F) before use. This improves flow and makes handling easier.

Deformation usually happens due to insufficient support or exposure to heat.

For larger projects (like tables), make sure the piece is properly supported to prevent bending over time.

If your project has warped:

1. Place it on a flat, even surface.
2. Gently heat the epoxy to soften it.
3. Apply even weight to bring it back into shape.
4. Let it cool completely in the corrected position.

Once straight, add proper support to prevent it from deforming again.

Use our calculator to quickly find out how much resin and hardener you need for your project.

Simply enter the length, width, and height of your mold, and the calculator will show you the exact amounts required.

For coating projects, we recommend a minimum layer thickness of 1/16 inch.

The mixing ratio for our kits is 2:1 (e.g., 64oz resin: 32oz hardener). 

We recommend using a scale for precise accuracy. Always transfer your resin and hardener mixture to a clean mixing cup and mix again until the mixture is streak-free to ensure both components are completely mixed together.

No. Always follow the specified mixing ratio exactly.

Changing the ratio will prevent the resin from curing properly. Adding extra hardener will not make it cure faster — it can actually stop the resin from curing at all.

Mix the resin and hardener thoroughly until the mixture is completely streak-free and uniform.

Be sure to scrape the sides and bottom of your mixing container, as the components can settle due to different densities.

For best results, once fully mixed, transfer the mixture into a new clean container and mix again (double-mixing method). This helps ensure a proper cure.

We recommend working at 70°F for best results, as long as you do not exceed the maximum pouring depth.

The minimum working temperature for all our epoxy is 60°F. This is also the recommended temperature when working with the Deep Pour Epoxy Kit for thicker pours.

Please note that working temperature does not only refer to the room temperature. The epoxy resin, hardener, and the surface (substrate) should all be at the proper temperature before you begin.

Our epoxy resin is solvent-free, low odor, and not classified as hazardous to health under GHS08, nor as toxic under GHS06. We still recommend wearing nitrile gloves and an appropriate mask during handling to ensure safe use.

Once fully cured, the epoxy is safe for indirect food contact. However, cutting directly on the surface may create small particles, so using a cutting board is recommended.

The cured surface is resistant to most common chemicals and food acids, but prolonged exposure to strong or aggressive substances should be avoided.

Before sanding, make sure the epoxy is fully cured. 

Start with a coarse grit such as P100 and gradually work your way up to finer grits like P3000 or higher for a smoother finish. Do not skip grits — each step should remove the scratches from the previous one to avoid haze or uneven spots.

For best results, wet sanding is recommended, as it reduces dust, prevents clogging, and creates a smoother surface. 

Work in small sections, clean the surface between sanding stages, and check your progress with good lighting.

Avoid overheating the surface by sanding in short intervals, and always wear proper protective gear such as a mask, goggles, and gloves.

Epoxy resin can only be polished once it has fully cured.

First, make sure the surface is clean and free of dust after sanding. Wipe it down with a soft cloth or a damp cloth and let it dry completely.

Next, apply a small amount of polishing compound using a soft cloth or polishing pad. 

Spread it evenly in gentle circular motions without applying too much pressure. Avoid using too much product, as this can leave a cloudy finish.

Finally, buff the surface with a clean microfibre cloth until you achieve the desired shine. Repeat if necessary.

Tip: Work in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves during the process.

Yes, once the epoxy resin is fully cured, it can be cut, sanded, drilled, or turned just like other hard materials.

Curing time depends on the product used and the surrounding temperature. Make sure the resin is completely hardened before starting any machining work.

For clean and precise results, use sharp tools that are suitable for hard plastics or similar materials.

Store your epoxy resin tightly closed in a dark, dry place.

The recommended storage temperature is 50–85°F for the ECO System and 60–85°F for the PRO and PRO+ Systems.

When stored properly, unopened epoxy can be kept for up to 1 year. After opening, it should be used within 6 months for best performance.

At 70°F, the recommended waiting times between layers are:

• ECO System (3/8” layer): wait at least 6 hours
• PRO System (3/4” layer): wait at least 12 hours
• PRO+ System (2” layer): wait 48–72 hours

If you pour thinner layers or work at temperatures below 70°F, the waiting time will be longer. Always ensure the previous layer has properly set before applying the next one.

The right time to create patterns in your epoxy depends on several factors, such as room temperature and the amount of resin used.

As a general rule, you can start drawing patterns once the resin has thickened to a consistency similar to liquid honey. At this point, it is thick enough to hold the design, and the pigments will no longer sink to the bottom.

For a strong glow-in-the-dark effect, we recommend a layer thickness of at least 3/8". In general, the thicker the layer, the more intense the glow will appear.

This is also why glow-in-the-dark pigments are not suitable for very thin applications such as countertops or floor coatings.

The amount of pigment or dye depends on the type of color effect you want. Below are the recommended mixing ratios:

• Powder pigments (Metallic, Neon, Glow-in-the-dark): 1 g per 2 fl. oz. of epoxy or 70 g (2.5 oz) per gallon
• Transparent dyes (except white, black, gray): 1 g per 17.5 fl. oz.or 7 g (0.25 oz) per gallon
• Transparent white, black, gray: 1 g per 53 fl. oz. or 2.5 g (0.1 oz) per gallon
• Semi-transparent dyes (except white): 1 g color + 0.5 g white per 26.5 fl. oz. or 5 g color + 2.5 g white per gallon
• Semi-transparent white: 1 g per 17.5 fl. oz. or 7 g (0.25 oz) per gallon
• Solid colors (RAL color paste): 1 g per 3 fl. oz. or 40 g (1.5 oz) per gallon
• Glitter pigments/flakes: 1 g per 3 fl. oz. or 40 g (1.5 oz) per gallon

Important: Do not exceed the recommended amounts. Adding too much liquid dye or color paste can interfere with the chemical reaction and cause curing problems. Always mix thoroughly and add color gradually.

Yes, you can mix metallic pigments, RAL color pastes, and drop-in dyes together in epoxy — including different shades within the same type.

However, keep in mind:

• Metallic pigments and RAL color pastes are opaque and can hide transparent drop-in dyes.
• Metallic pigments become opaque at around 1.5%, which may fully cover other colors or effects.
• Drop-in dyes follow color theory (e.g., yellow + blue = green). Adding white creates a semi-transparent effect.
• Mixing transparent dyes with RAL paste is technically possible, but the opaque paste will dominate the final color. In most cases, choosing the desired RAL color directly is recommended instead of mixing.
• Combining multiple opaque pigments (metallic, neon, glow-in-the-dark, RAL paste) in one mixture can reduce or completely hide special effects such as shimmer or glow.

For best results, always test your color combination in a small batch first to find the right ratio and desired effect.

Prepare separate mixtures for each color. You can mix a larger batch of clear resin first, then divide it and tint each portion individually.

To prevent colors from blending, wait until the resin reaches a thick, gel-like consistency before pouring.

Monitor the resin closely, as it can heat up quickly at this stage. Use it at the right moment to avoid overheating and unwanted mixing.

Yes, epoxy resin can be applied to porous or absorbent surfaces, but proper preparation is essential.

Highly absorbent substrates must be sealed first. This usually requires several thin priming layers of epoxy resin to fully close the pores and prevent the material from soaking in.

Plan to use more resin than usual and apply as many sealing coats as necessary before pouring the final layer. Proper priming ensures an even surface and a better overall result.

After full chemical curing, epoxy resin is generally heat resistant up to about 140°F. If epoxy is exposed to temperatures above 140°F (60°C), it may soften and deform.

The heat resistance can be increased through a controlled post-curing process. Place the fully cured piece on a stable, flat surface to prevent bending. Slowly heat the resin until it becomes slightly soft, then allow it to cool completely. Repeat the process while gradually increasing the temperature (e.g., 150°F, then 160°F, 170°F, etc.). Using this method, the heat resistance can be increased to approximately 180°F.

For larger pieces that cannot be easily post-cured, applying a heat-resistant topcoat, such as a PU topcoat, can also increase the heat resistance to approximately 180°F.

You can embed most objects in epoxy. However, keep these points in mind:

• Some plastics may not bond properly to epoxy.
• The object should withstand temperatures up to 140°F (60°C) during curing.
• Fragile or porous items should be sealed first with a thin layer of epoxy.
• Items that may discolor (such as dried flowers or pictures) should be sealed with a clear acrylic spray before embedding.

When in doubt, test on a small sample first.

Yes, LED lights can be embedded in epoxy resin. For the best effect, use clear, transparent, or semi-transparent resin so the light remains visible.

In thicker pours, colors naturally appear darker. Add dyes gradually and in small amounts until you reach the desired shade. The color of the uncured resin will remain the same after curing.

Avoid using opaque pigments, such as metallic pigments, color pastes, neon pigments, or glow-in-the-dark pigments, as these can block the light and prevent the LED from being visible.

Clean cured epoxy with a soft cloth and a mild, non-abrasive cleaner (gentle surfactants work best).

Avoid acid-based, chlorine-containing, or strong alkaline cleaners, as they can dull (mattify) or damage the surface over time.

No, our epoxy resins are only sold as complete systems. We do not offer the individual components for separate purchase.

We do not recommend mixing different epoxy kits in the same pour.

However, it is generally possible to apply one compatible kit as a new layer on top of another, once the previous layer has been properly prepared.

For best results and performance, always use one kit per pour and follow the recommended guidelines.

At a working temperature of 70°F, the minimum recommended layer thickness is 1/16 inch.

There are two effective methods:

1. Sand between layers
Let the first layer fully cure, then lightly sand the surface and remove all dust before pouring the next layer.

2. Pour at the gel stage
Apply the next layer while the previous one is not fully cured — when it has a thick, gel-like consistency.

Be careful: the layers will chemically react, so stay within the maximum pouring depth and keep the room temperature moderate.

If you miss the correct timing or skip sanding, a line may be visible — usually only when viewed at a 90° angle.

Gel time is measured at 70°F and varies depending on the thickness of your pour. Warmer temperatures will shorten the working time.

ECO (Countertops & Laminating)

• 1/16" layer: 60 minutes
• 3/8" layer: 25 minutes

PRO (Art Resin & Crafting)

• 1/16" layer: 120 minutes
• 3/8" layer: 90 minutes
• 3/4" layer: 60 minutes

PRO+ (Deep Pour)

• 1/16" layer: 360 minutes
• 1/16" to 3/4" layer: 360 minutes
• 3/4" to 2" layer: 240 minutes

For best results, always consider room temperature and pour thickness when planning your project.

Curing times are based on 70°F. Lower temperatures will extend curing time.

ECO (Countertops & Laminating)

• Touch / light use (mechanical cure): 20–24 hours
• Full chemical cure: 7 days
• Sensitive to water and scratches until fully cured

PRO (Art Resin & Crafting)

• Touch / light use (mechanical cure): 20–24 hours
• Full chemical cure: 7 days
• Sensitive to water and scratches until fully cured

PRO+ (Deep Pour)

• Touch / light use (mechanical cure): 48–72 hours
• Full chemical cure: 14 days
• Sensitive to water and scratches until fully cured

For best results, keep temperature stable during the entire curing process.

A matte finish after sanding is normal. To restore clarity or shine, continue sanding with progressively finer grits.

• Start around P100 (if heavy leveling is needed)
• Gradually work up to P3,000 or higher (up to P10,000 for a high-gloss finish)
• Do not skip grit levels

Each step must fully remove the scratches from the previous grit. Skipping a grit can leave visible haze or dull spots.

After each step, clean off the dust and check the surface under good lighting to see if further sanding is needed.

No. Polishing is only necessary after the final layer has fully cured — and only if you want a polished finish.

Our epoxy resin kits are scratch-resistant but to increase the resistance to an even higher level we recommend applying our PU Topcoat to the surface once the epoxy has cured.

Tools and accessories should be cleaned immediately after use, before the epoxy begins to cure.

Mixing sticks and cups can usually be wiped clean with a paper towel. Once the resin has fully cured, it can often be peeled or squeezed out of mixing containers.

Brushes and rollers should be cleaned promptly with a suitable solvent, such as acetone, to prevent the resin from hardening.

We do not recommend applying our epoxy resin to vertical surfaces or slopes. Because of its low viscosity, the resin can run and cause streaks or uneven areas. While it is technically possible to apply epoxy in multiple layers on vertical surfaces, this requires advanced skills and precision. 

For best results, apply the epoxy on a flat, horizontal surface. For example, remove doors or panels, coat them while lying flat, allow them to cure fully, and then reinstall them.

Start by determining the size of your table and building a box frame slightly larger than your final piece. 

Use smooth plywood or MDF for the sides and a flat board for the base. The side panels should be high enough to contain the full resin pour. Secure the sides to the base with screws and make sure everything is level.

Seal all inner edges with silicone to prevent leaks and allow it to cure fully. Then apply separating tape to the inside surfaces (without overlapping) and spray with separating agent to ensure the epoxy does not stick to the frame.

Place your wood slabs inside the mold, check alignment and level again, and you are ready to pour the epoxy.

Start by preparing your workspace. Make sure the room, wood, and epoxy are around 70°F, and that everything is clean and dry.

Build a mold to the size of your table using smooth boards. Seal the edges with silicone, line the mold with separating tape (without overlapping), and apply separating agent spray. Place your wooden slabs inside the mold and secure them in place.

Before the main pour, apply a thin primer layer (about 1/16”) of mixed epoxy to the wood surfaces and the river area. This helps prevent air bubbles and reduces material loss. Let the primer cure.

For the main pour, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio and add pigments if desired. Pour the epoxy slowly into the river area, making sure not to exceed the maximum pour depth of your epoxy. Allow the table to cure completely.

Once cured, remove the mold, sand the surface from coarse to fine grit, and polish to the desired gloss level. You can finish the table with oil, varnish, wax, or a durable PU Topcoat. Let the final finish fully cure before use.

Yes, it is generally possible to apply epoxy to oiled or waxed wood. However, the oil or wax must be fully absorbed and completely dry before applying the epoxy.

We strongly recommend doing a small test first to ensure proper adhesion and compatibility for your specific project.

Yes, we recommend removing all bark and any loose wood before pouring epoxy.

Bark and loose material can weaken the bond between the wood and resin, which may cause adhesion problems later on.

Epoxy works best with silicone molds, as it does not stick to silicone and can be removed easily after curing. Using a separating agent spray on silicone molds helps extend their lifespan and makes unmolding even easier. Be sure to wipe off any excess spray before pouring.

If you are using a wooden mold or building your own frame (for example, for a river table), you should line it with separating tape, placing the tape side by side without overlapping. Overlapping can cause surface marks that require extra sanding after curing. For best results, we recommend using both separating tape and separating agent spray to make demolding easier.

Before applying epoxy, the surface must be properly dry.

Wood should have a moisture content of 12% or less, and concrete should not exceed 3% residual moisture.

Ensuring the correct moisture level helps prevent adhesion issues, bubbles, and curing problems.

Masking tape should be removed once the epoxy has started to set but is not fully cured. The surface should no longer be liquid or able to flow when the tape is peeled away.

If the epoxy forms thin “threads” while removing the tape, they can easily be trimmed with a utility knife while the resin is still slightly soft.

When the recommended processing temperature and maximum pour depth are followed, epoxy resin typically does not exceed about 140°F during curing.

If these guidelines are not respected, the resin can overheat and temperatures may rise above 200°F. Excessive heat can lead to problems such as cracking, yellowing, or bubble formation.

No, WB Pigments are not compatible with epoxy resin.

They are designed to color the 1K primer included in certain countertop kits, not the epoxy resin itself.

• ECO System: Shore D 87
• PRO System: Shore D 82
• PRO+ System: Shore D 80

• ECO System: 700 cP
• PRO System: 530 cP
• PRO+ System: 350 cP

Adding fillers or thickening agents (such as microglass beads) will make the resin cloudy — it won’t stay transparent.

The only way to keep it clear is to let the mixed resin sit for a short time until it naturally thickens.

Be careful: resin can heat up quickly as it reacts. Stay nearby and monitor it closely to avoid overheating. Use it as soon as it reaches the desired consistency.

The finish of your epoxy depends on the mold surface.

• A glossy silicone mold will produce a glossy result.
• A matte silicone mold will create a matte surface.

If your piece turns out matte, you can:

• Polish it after full curing to restore gloss, or
• Apply a clear acrylic spray for shine (especially on irregular shapes that are hard to polish).

Always wait until the resin is fully chemically cured before polishing or spraying.

No, there is no separate PRO+ A-component.

The PRO A-component is used for both systems and is compatible with the PRO B-component and the PRO+ B-component.

Yes, epoxy can be used indoors when applied correctly. Follow the recommended temperature and pouring guidelines to prevent overheating.

Keep the room conditions stable while curing — sudden changes in temperature or humidity can affect the surface finish.

We don’t recommend working with epoxy when humidity is above 60%. For best results, keep humidity below 60% until the resin is fully cured.

High humidity can cause surface issues such as whitening (also known as amine blush) and may affect the final finish.

We don’t recommend applying epoxy outdoors, as temperature and humidity can’t be properly controlled. This can affect curing and the final finish.

For best results, apply and let the epoxy cure in a controlled indoor environment. Once fully cured, the finished piece can be moved outside if needed.

Epoxy requires a stable, recommended working temperature to cure properly.

Make sure your workspace maintains a constant temperature day and night during the entire curing process. Working in an unheated space can lead to curing issues if the temperature drops or fluctuates.

Yes, our epoxy resins are self-leveling, allowing the surface to smooth out naturally after pouring.

They are also not water-based.

Component A (Resin):
16 fl oz, 32 fl oz, 64 fl oz, 96 fl oz, 1.25 gal, 2.5 gal

Component B (Hardener):
8 fl oz, 16 fl oz, 32 fl oz, 64 fl oz, 96 fl oz, 1.25 gal, 2.5 gal

We always ship in the largest available container size to match your order. If a specific size is temporarily out of stock, we may use multiple smaller containers to ensure you receive your full quantity as quickly as possible.

You can also use it for coating tables, countertops, and other furniture as well as boat building, mold making, and all repairs. It is also suitable for art and jewelry.

It is a liquid plastic that becomes solid when resin and hardener are mixed. It can be colored and molded into any desired shape. Epoxy resin grades differ in terms of the maximum possible pouring height per casting operation as well as the additives they contain.

We offer the largest and most diverse quantity selection of epoxy across the USA. Our epoxy is bubble-free, ultra-clear, and has the best UV stabilization. It is VOC-, BPA- and solvent-free. Easy to use and allows for castings of up to 12".

Choose from a variety of colors  - by far the biggest selection across the USA. Customer satisfaction and the overall shipping experience are our number one priority which is why we offer extremely attractive kit prices. With precise purchasing, you only need to purchase what you need. The more your order the bigger the savings! We provide enough colorant to dye the quantity purchased. Don't stress how much you need. We've got you covered! Our epoxy colorants feature live videos where the colorant is mixed in with our epoxy leaving no room for surprises! Watch our for professional easy to follow step-by-step tutorials and complete the epoxy project you've always dreamed of!

No, we do not recommend using a 1K primer under clear, transparent, or semi-transparent epoxy resin. Since the primer is colored, it may remain visible through the final layer.

For transparent applications, it is best to prime the surface with a thin layer of the same epoxy resin that will be used for the project. Depending on how absorbent the substrate is, one or more sealing coats may be required.

Prepare the surface: Ensure it is clean, dry, and dust-free. Seal porous surfaces with a thin layer of resin if necessary.

Mix thoroughly: Combine resin and hardener in 2:1 ratio. Stir well, scraping the sides and bottom until streak-free. Add pigments or dyes if desired and mix well.

Pour immediately: Pour into your mold or onto the surface and spread evenly.

Remove bubbles (if needed): Briefly use a heat gun or torch, keeping it moving.

Let it cure: Allow to cure in a dry, dust-free area without disturbance.

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free. 

For countertops, we recommend applying our clear Countertop Kit in 2 layers. 

Mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again to ensure it is fully blended. 

Apply a thin first layer as a primer using a foam roller and allow it to cure. 

Then mix the remaining material and apply the main coat evenly with a squeegee or foam roller. Pour the resin immediately after mixing to avoid overheating in the bucket.

Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity. The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70 °F).

Work at about 70°F and make sure the surface is clean, dry, level, and dust-free. 

Start by applying the included Primer 1K with a roller and allow it to dry for 8–12 hours.

For the main coat, mix the resin and hardener in a 2:1 ratio, transfer to a clean container, and mix again. 

Add the metallic pigment (1 g of metallic pigment per 2 fl.oz. of epoxy or 70 g (2.5 oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy) and stir thoroughly. 

Pour the mixture onto the surface immediately and spread it evenly with a squeegee and foam roller.

The surface can be touched after about 20 hours and fully cures in approximately 7 days (at 70 °F). Avoid moisture during curing, as epoxy is sensitive to humidity.

The 2K PU Topcoat is based on fully aliphatic polyurethane resin and is used as a clear durable protective coat. 

The 2K PU Paint is a colored fully aliphatic polyurethane paint designed as a universal coating for use on various substrates.

Mix the 2K PU Paint at a 3:1 ratio — for example, 42 fl. oz. of A-component Resin with 14 fl. oz. of B-component Hardener.

Mix the 2K PU Topcoat at a 2:1 ratio — for example, 28 fl. oz. of A-component with 14 fl. oz. of B-component.

Both the 2K PU Topcoat and the 2K PU Paint can be applied indoors and outdoors to floors, walls, and furniture made of concrete, wood, metal, tiles, microcement, epoxy, concrete-effect surfaces, and more. It is compatible with all clean, dry substrates, except some plastics.

We recommend applying 2 coats of 2K PU Topcoat or 2K PU Paint in a criss-cross motion to ensure the surface is fully sealed.

On average, about 0.29 fl. oz./sq ft of 2K PU Paint and 0.28 fl. oz./sq ft of 2K PU Topcoat are required per coat. We recommend applying two coats. Actual consumption may vary depending on the substrate’s porosity and absorption.

The substrate and ambient temperature must be between 40°F and 85°F, with best results at around 70°F. The maximum recommended air humidity is 75%.

Both the 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat can be applied using a brush, roller, or spray gun.

Make sure the surface is stable, clean, dry, and lightly sanded for better adhesion. 

Mix the A-component and B-component in a 2:1 ratio and stir thoroughly, including the sides and bottom of the mixing cup. For best results, transfer to a clean cup and mix again until streak-free.

Apply thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern. Apply a second coat after minimum 6 hours and within 20 hours. For floors, wait until the surface is walkable (about 12 hours) before applying the second coat.

Tip: Avoid rubber-soled shoes during sanding, cleaning, and application, as rubber particles may affect the finish.

Make sure the surface is stable, clean, dry, and lightly sanded for better adhesion. 

Shake both components before use, then mix the A-component and B-component in a 3:1 ratio (e.g. 42 fl. oz. A-component with 14 fl. oz. B-component). Add 5% EP Color Paste to the mixed paint if color is required (e.g. 100 g / 3.5 oz per 56 fl. oz. mixed paint).

Stir thoroughly, including the sides and bottom of the mixing cup. For best results, transfer to a clean cup and mix again until streak-free.

Apply thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern. Apply a second coat after minimum 3 hours and within 20 hours. For floors, wait until the surface is walkable (about 6 hours) before applying the second coat.

Tip: Avoid rubber-soled shoes during sanding, cleaning, and application, as rubber particles may affect the finish.

Make sure the pool is sealed, stable, clean, dry, and lightly sanded for better adhesion. 

Shake both components before use, then mix the A-component and B-component in a 3:1 ratio (e.g. 42 fl. oz. A-component with 14 fl. oz. B-component). Add 5% EP Color Paste if color is required (e.g. 100 g / 3.5 oz per 56 fl. oz. mixed paint).

Stir thoroughly, including the sides and bottom of the mixing cup. For best results, transfer to a clean cup and mix again until streak-free.

Apply thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern. We recommend coating the pool walls first, then the bottom. Apply a second coat after minimum 3 hours and within 20 hours. For floors, wait until the surface is walkable (about 6 hours) before applying the second coat.

Tip: Avoid rubber-soled shoes during sanding, cleaning, and application, as rubber particles may affect the finish.

We recommend adding 5% EP Color Paste to the 2K PU Paint mixture — for example, 100 g (3.5 oz) of EP Color Paste to 56 fl. oz. of mixed 2K PU Paint (42 fl. oz. A-component and 14 fl. oz. B-component).

For 2K PU Topcoat, apply the second coat after at least 6 hours but within 20 hours. For floors, wait until the surface is walkable (about 12 hours) before applying the next coat.

For 2K PU Paint, apply the second coat after at least 3 hours but within 20 hours. For floors, wait until the surface is walkable (about 6 hours) before applying the next coat.

If more than 20 hours have passed, lightly sand the surface to help the new coat bond properly.

At 80°F and 60% humidity, 2K PU Paint becomes dust-free in about 40 minutes, is touch dry/walkable after about 6 hours, loadable after about 24 hours, and fully cured after about 6 days.
Under the same conditions, 2K PU Topcoat becomes dust-free in about 60 minutes, is touch dry/walkable after about 12 hours, loadable after about 72 hours, and fully cured after about 6 days.

Both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are available in matte or glossy finishes.

Yes, you can add 1% microglass beads to both products to achieve a non-slip finish. For example, add 15 g (0.5 oz) of microglass beads to 42 fl. oz. of mixed 2K PU Topcoat (28 fl. oz. A-component + 14 fl. oz. B-component), or 15 g (0.5 oz) to 56 fl. oz. of mixed 2K PU Paint (42 fl. oz. A-component + 14 fl. oz. B-component). 

Adding microglass beads may alter the appearance — it can reduce the transparency of the 2K PU Topcoat, alter the color of the 2K PU Paint, and may mattify glossy finishes.

Yes, both 2K PU Topcoat and 2K PU Paint – Pool Paint are chlorine-resistant and suitable for pool use. 

They can be used in chlorine, saltwater, and mineral pools, both indoors and outdoors, and are suitable for all pool types. 

To ensure long-term performance, keep the water pH between 7.2 and 7.6. 

If the pH level of your pool is lower than 7.2, the PU paint and PU Topcoat will peel off. If the pH level of your pool is over 7.6, the PU Paint and PU Topcoat will whiten. 

We recommend wearing nitrile gloves (Class 3 for short-term use and Class 5 for longer or repeated contact) and a respiratory mask class M3 or higher when mixing and applying both products.

Clean tools immediately after use with thinner when working with both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat.

Clean fully cured surfaces with light surfactants. Do not use acidic, chlorinated, or alkaline cleaners, and do not clean either product before complete chemical curing.

The 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat both have a heat resistance of up to 175°F.

Yes, both products can be thinned with PU solvent. The 2K PU Paint can be thinned by about 5–10%, and the 2K PU Topcoat by approximately 10%. Please note that PU solvent is not sold by us.

Yes, both the 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are scratch and abrasion resistant. In Taber abrasion testing after 6 days, a weight loss of 65 mg was recorded (1000 rotations with a grinding wheel at 2.2 lbs pressure).

Both the 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are UV-resistant, non-yellowing, elastic (non-cracking even on warping surfaces), scratch resistant, waterproof, chemical resistant, and highly durable.

No, both the 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are not breathable (not open to diffusion).

Yes, both the 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are UV-resistant.

The 2K PU Paint has a viscosity of 400–500 cP at 70°F, and the 2K PU Topcoat has a viscosity of 1200–1400 cP at 80°F.

No, both the 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are not solvent-free.

The 2K PU Paint has a density of 74.9 ± 3.12 lb/ft³ at 70°F, and the 2K PU Topcoat has a density of 74.9 ± 3.1 lb/ft³ at 80°F.

Store both products in their original containers, tightly closed, in a cool, frost-free, dark place, and protect them from sunlight. Store the products between 45°F and 80°F.

The shelf life is 12 months unopened and about 6 months after opening for both products. Shelf life may be significantly reduced if storage conditions are not properly followed.

Yes, the 2K PU Paint is colorfast. 

The 2K PU Paint is pre-tinted in white, and the 2K PU Topcoat is transparent.

Yes, you can apply glossy 2K PU Topcoat over matte, and matte 2K PU Topcoat over glossy.

Yes, both the 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat provide a smooth finish, similar to epoxy resin.

Yes, both products can come into contact with food after full chemical curing.

Yes, you can apply epoxy over both products — epoxy paint over 2K PU Paint and epoxy resin over 2K PU Topcoat. However, this usually offers no added benefit, since both products are already UV-resistant and non-yellowing.

Yes, you can apply both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat over epoxy resin, including the glossy 2K PU Topcoat. We recommend waiting until the epoxy resin is fully cured and sanding the surface before application to ensure proper adhesion. We recommend applying the 2K PU Topcoat or PU Paint only after the epoxy resin is fully cured.

No, applying 2K PU Topcoat over epoxy resin will not stop yellowing completely, but it will reduce and slow down the yellowing process.

No, the 2K PU Paint is pre-tinted in white and is therefore only available in white and pastel colors.

Yes, you can apply 2K PU Paint over microcement if you want to change or cover the existing surface.

No, neither 2K PU Paint nor 2K PU Topcoat can be used as a sealing slurry. They will not stop water rising by capillarity, and the coating may peel off if capillary moisture is present.

No, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat must be applied on a dry substrate. Applying them on a wet or damp surface may cause the coating to peel off.

Yes, you can apply both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat over old PU paint. We recommend sanding and cleaning the old PU paint before application to ensure good adhesion.

Yes, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are elastic and can be applied to moving or warping surfaces without reinforcement, such as on warping wood.

Yes, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat can be applied on glass. The glass must be sanded and thoroughly cleaned before application.

Yes, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat can be applied over 1K paints such as Metallic Brush Effect, Acrylic Protect, and similar coatings.

Yes, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are suitable for use on boats and can withstand contact with seawater and freshwater.

Yes, 2K PU Topcoat can be used as a transparent coating on natural stone, and 2K PU Paint can be used as a colored coating on natural stone.

The type of roller depends on the substrate. We recommend using a foam roller on very smooth, non-absorbent surfaces and a lint-free paint roller on irregular, absorbent surfaces. Make sure the roller is solvent-resistant.

Both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat can be sprayed using HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure), conventional air spray, or an airless spray gun. We recommend a 1/16” to 5/64” spray nozzle. When diluted with PU solvent, a 3/64” to 1/16” spray nozzle can be used.

We do not recommend adding EP Color Paste to 2K PU Topcoat, as the color will remain see-through and will not create an opaque coating.

You can add metallic pigment to 2K PU Topcoat, but it will only create a shimmer effect, not a full metallic look like epoxy resin. We do not recommend adding metallic pigment to 2K PU Paint, as it is pre-tinted in white and the pigment will not be visible.

Yes, you can apply stickers on 2K PU Paint and on epoxy resin. If you want to protect the stickers with 2K PU Topcoat, we recommend testing it on one sticker first to confirm compatibility.

No, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are not designed to be poured, but you can build up thickness by applying multiple layers. 

Yes, it is possible to use polishing paste to polish both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat.

To remove PU Paint and PU Topcoat, use a coarse grit of P80–P120. For sanding between coats, use P400 (a finer grit is not necessary).

For sanding and polishing after curing, wet sanding is recommended once the PU Paint and PU Topcoat are fully cured. Start with P400–P600 (or P800 if the surface is already smooth) and gradually work up to P3000, similar to polishing epoxy resin.

No, sanding between layers is not necessary if you apply the next coat after minimum 6 hours and within 20 hours at 70°F. If you wait longer than 20 hours, we recommend lightly sanding with P400 grit before applying the next coat.

Yes, we recommend doubling the quantity when products are bought separately so you have enough material to apply two coats.

Yes, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are resistant to plasticizers. They can come into contact with various types of plastic and rubber (such as wheels) without causing discoloration or damage to the coating.

Yes, we recommend using 2K PU Paint to paint a radiator or heater.

Yes, we recommend using 2K PU Paint to paint bathtubs, sinks, and shower trays. 2K PU Topcoat can be used as a clear coat if you want additional protection. If the shower tray is made of plastic, we recommend sanding and doing a small compatibility test before full application.

Yes, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat can be used to paint outdoor tiles.

The smallest 2K PU Paint quantity is 42 fl. oz. (28 fl. oz. A-component + 14 fl. oz. B-component).
The smallest 2K PU Topcoat quantity is 56 fl. oz. (42 fl. oz. A-component + 14 fl. oz. B-component).

No, the EP Color Paste uses standard RAL colors, but since 2K PU Paint is pre-tinted in white, the final colors will appear as pastel shades and will not be identical to the RAL color catalogue.

No, you do not need to apply 2K PU Topcoat over 2K PU Paint for protection.

Yes, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat can be applied in thin layers with a foam roller and are suitable for sloped surfaces.

The A-component of both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat is a thick liquid, with the matte version thicker than the glossy version.

The B-component of both products is a liquid, and the matte version is slightly thicker than the glossy version.

Yes, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat can help prevent water from going through concrete. However, they cannot prevent water from rising from underneath the concrete.

The working time is approximately 20 minutes at 70°F for 2K PU Paint and about 30 minutes at 70°F for 2K PU Topcoat.

We recommend using 2K PU Paint to achieve a white flooring finish.

Yes, both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat can be used to coat stairs.

The 2K PU Paint achieves an average layer thickness of about 100 µm, and the 2K PU Topcoat achieves about 70 µm. Actual layer thickness and material consumption may vary depending on the substrate’s porosity and absorption.

Yes, both the 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat have a strong smell.

The pot life for both 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat is approximately 90 minutes at 80°F.

Make sure the surface is clean, smooth, and free of imperfections, and protect surrounding areas with plastic drop cloths and masking tape. 

Prime with Interior Paint Ultra White if needed; depending on the surface and desired result, priming can sometimes be skipped. The surface should be uniform, matte, and white before applying limewash.

To mix the paint, add 1 gal water, 4.4 lbs Limewash Powder, and 100 g (3.5 oz) WB Pigment, then mix thoroughly until fully dissolved. Let the mixture sit for 5 minutes, and remix regularly during application to prevent settling.

Apply the first coat using a fine bristle brush, without overloading it. Work in a criss-cross motion, blending sections wet-in-wet and feathering the edges for a seamless finish. Start from a corner and blend each section as you go.

Allow the first coat to dry for at least 3 hours before applying the next coat. The first layer acts as a base color, so the final look develops with additional coats. Clean the brush with water between coats and apply subsequent layers in the same way.

For best results, we recommend applying Limewash Paint with a fine bristle brush. We do not recommend using a roller, as it may affect the final finish, and medium or large bristle brushes can leave visible brush strokes.

Yes — applying Limewash on a wall that is not white can change the final colour of the Limewash finish.

No — we do not recommend applying Limewash Paint outdoors.

No — we do not recommend applying Limewash Paint in showers or bathrooms.

No — we do not recommend applying Limewash Paint on floors.

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on raw or painted render. If the render is white and raw, you do not need to prime first; simply slightly moisten the surface with water using a spray mist or brush to prevent the paint from drying too quickly.

If the surface is not white (raw or painted), we recommend priming with Interior Paint Ultra White before application to achieve the colour shown on the website. 

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on raw or painted bricks. If the bricks are white and raw, you do not need to prime first; simply slightly moisten the surface with water using a spray mist or brush to help prevent the paint from drying too quickly.

If the raw bricks are not white (raw or painted), the underlying colour may change the final Limewash colour. To achieve the colour shown on the website, we recommend priming with Interior Paint Ultra White before application.

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on plaster or gypsum. For white raw plaster or gypsum, we recommend priming first with Interior Paint Ultra White to achieve the best colour and finish.

It is also possible to apply Limewash on unpainted lime plaster or unpainted clay plaster without primer, but this may alter the final colour and appearance.

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on drywall or plasterboards. If the drywall or plasterboard is white and raw or painted in another color than white, it should be primed first with Interior Paint Ultra White before applying Limewash.

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on mixed or repaired surfaces. If the surface is white and raw or painted in another color than whtie, it should be primed first with Interior Paint Ultra White. 

No — we do not recommend applying Limewash Paint on metal surfaces.

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on raw or painted terracotta. If the terracotta is white and raw, you do not need to prime; lightly moisten the surface with water before application to prevent the paint from drying too quickly.

If the terracotta is not white (raw or already painted), the underlying colour may change the final Limewash colour. Please note that the long-term durability of Limewash applied on already painted terracotta may vary.

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on wallpaper. If the wallpaper is white and raw or already painted in another color than white, it should be primed first with Interior Paint Ultra White. 

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on fabrics such as calico and linen. Applying Limewash on fabrics that are not white is possible, but it may alter the final colour.

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on wood. If the wood is already paint or raw, it should be primed first with Interior Paint Ultra White. 

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on raw or painted stone. If the stone is white and raw, you do not need to prime; lightly moisten the surface with water before application to help prevent the paint from drying too quickly.

If the raw stone is not white (raw or painted), the underlying colour may change the final Limewash colour. To achieve the colour shown on the website, we recommend priming with Interior Paint Ultra White before application.

Yes — Limewash Paint can be applied on concrete. If the concrete is already painted or raw, it should be primed first with Interior Paint Ultra White. Applying Limewash directly on raw concrete without primer may alter the final colour.

No — if you are happy with the result after 1 coat, you do not need to apply a second coat. However, to achieve the typical Limewash look and the finish shown on the website, we recommend applying at least 2 coats.

Check the surface regularly in glancing light by looking across the wall at an angle to spot brush strokes, streaks, or areas with excess paint. If too much Limewash is applied, the surface may dry white and powdery (called lime bloom). If this happens, let the layer dry for 24 hours, then apply a new coat using less Limewash Paint.

Yes — to fix or touch up Limewash, we recommend using a rough sponge to soften the edges into a natural cloud-like shape. Apply Limewash to the area being repaired and feather the edges to blend it seamlessly with the surrounding surface.

Yes — you can combine Limewash Paint colours to create an ombré look. To blend colours softly, use a clean brush with only water to blend the different Limewash shades together.

Yes — you can use different techniques to create different finishes. For example, the drag-down technique (brushing only from top to bottom) creates a natural rain-washed effect.

We recommend mixing 4.4 lbs Limewash Powder with 1 gal of water to achieve the effect shown on our website.

Yes — you can adjust the amount of water. Adding more water will make the Limewash more transparent, while adding less water will make it more opaque.

We recommend adding 100 g (3.5 oz) WB Pigment to a mix of 4.4 lbs Limewash Powder and 1 gal of water. You can add more or less pigment, but this will change the colour and opacity of the Limewash Paint.

No — we do not recommend adding Metallic Pigment to Limewash Paint.

Limewash Powder is a mineral-based powder made with enhanced calcium carbonate.

Limewash Paint is designed for indoor walls and ceilings.

We recommend applying Limewash Paint at a minimum temperature of 40°F.

We recommend waiting at least 3 hours between Limewash Paint coats.

Limewash Paint is breathable, absorbs CO₂ while curing, helps regulate humidity, and has a very low VOC content (less than 1%). It has a pH value above 10.5 and is considered a natural, low-emission finish.

Please note that Limewash Paint is not water-resistant and not resistant to abrasion or scratches.

We recommend cleaning Limewash-painted surfaces using a dry cloth for dusting.

Store Limewash Paint between 35°F and 105°F. The shelf life is up to 12 months unopened and up to 6 months after opening. Improper storage conditions can significantly reduce shelf life.

Yes — when you select a colored Limewash Paint, the WB Pigment needed for coloring is included.

No — we do not recommend applying PU Topcoat over Limewash Paint, as it will significantly darken and change the colour of the finish.

A Rock Design Wall is a decorative wall finish created using Concrete Effect to achieve a textured, rock-like appearance.

It is designed to replicate the natural look of stone while maintaining a modern, seamless finish.

A Rock Design Wall is created using Concrete Effect applied in 2 layers.

Mixing:

• Mix Concrete Effect powder with water in a 5:2 ratio
  (Example: 5.5 lbs powder with 0.25 gal water)
• Add approx. 2% WB Pigment for color
  (Example: 100 g pigment for 5.5 lbs powder + 0.25 gal water)
• Do not mix more than 5.5 lbs at once, as the material thickens quickly.
• Working time: approx. 30 minutes

Application:

1. Apply a thin first layer using a trowel.
2. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes.
3. Mix fresh Concrete Effect and dab it onto the wall using two trowels to build texture.
4. Lightly smooth from top to bottom with a clean trowel.
5. Finish by dabbing the surface with a bristly brush to enhance the rock texture.

Each layer requires approximately the same amount of material to achieve the full rock effect.

No, priming is not required before using Concrete Effect.

However, if applying over tiles, Putty Primer can be used to fill grout lines beforehand to reduce the amount of Concrete Effect needed and create a more even surface.

Changing the trowel direction will create a different texture and pattern.

If you move the trowel from bottom to top, the finish will not match the Rock Design Wall texture shown on our website. Consistent top-to-bottom movement is recommended to achieve the intended look.

We recommend using rounded-edge trowels with a maximum thickness of 1/8” when working with our Concrete Effect and creating the Rock Design Wall.

We recommend applying 2 layers of Concrete Effect to achieve the Rock Design Wall texture and finish.

No, we do not recommend using the Rock Design system on floors.

The Rock Design set is intended for wall applications only.

For the Rock Design Wall, 11 lbs Concrete Effect and 2 × 100 g (3.5 oz) WB Pigment are sufficient to cover approximately 32 sqft.

Coverage may vary slightly depending on texture depth and application technique.

Yes, you can use one trowel and dab the Concrete Effect onto a spatula instead of using two trowels for the second layer.

However, using two trowels is generally faster and more efficient when creating the Rock Design texture.

When working on a large surface, apply the Rock Design in sections from top to bottom.

Concrete Effect sets quickly, so dividing the area into manageable sections helps maintain a consistent texture and prevents the material from drying before finishing the design.

We recommend waiting a minimum of 30 minutes before applying the second layer.

The first layer should be dry before applying the second layer to achieve the Rock Design texture.

There is no maximum time limit between the two layers.

Yes, the first layer of Concrete Effect should cover the entire wall and be fully opaque before applying the second layer.

A complete and even base layer is essential to properly achieve the Rock Design texture.

Yes, the Rock Design system with Concrete Effect can be applied directly over tiles.

Please note that additional material may be required to fill the grout lines. Alternatively, you can pre-fill the grout joints with Putty Primer before applying the Rock Design system for a more even surface.

The smallest Rock Design set available is 11 lbs Concrete Effect, which covers approximately 32 sq ft.

We recommend creating the Rock Design Wall with Concrete Effect, not Microcement.

The Rock Design texture is easier to achieve with Concrete Effect because it is a 1-component product. It is also easier to sand and modify if the design ever needs to be adjusted or removed.

Concrete Paint 2K is a two-component epoxy resin–based paint for indoor use. It provides a durable and easy-to-clean finish for concrete surfaces.

Make sure the room and surface temperature is at least +45°F, and the paint is at least +65°F.

Prepare the surface so it is clean, dry, and free from dust, grease, or anything that may reduce adhesion.

Mix Component A (resin) with Component B (hardener) in a 4:1 ratio. If needed, dilute with up to 20% water (this reduces coverage). Add about 5% WB pigment if color is desired.

Stir thoroughly, including the sides and bottom. For best results, pour into a clean container and mix again until streak-free.

Pour the mixed paint into a paint tray immediately to prevent thickening.

Apply with a foam roller using a criss-cross pattern. Wait 12–48 hours before applying a second coat.

Allow the final coat to fully dry and harden before use.

For proper coverage and durability, two coats are required. In some cases, especially on older concrete, a third coat may be needed.

The average consumption is about 0.72 oz per sq ft per coat. We recommend applying two coats. The total amount needed may vary depending on the porosity of the surface.

Wait at least 12 hours and no more than 48 hours between coats. If more than 48 hours have passed, lightly sand the first coat before applying the next one.

We recommend adding 5% WB Pigment to the mixed paint. For example: 40 fl oz Component A + 10 fl oz Component B + 100 g (3.5 oz) WB Pigment.

At 70°F and about 65% humidity, the surface can be walked on after 24 hours, lightly loaded after about 2 days, and fully loaded after 7 days.

At temperatures below 65°F, curing takes longer, technical performance may be reduced, and visual defects such as whitening or carbamate formation may occur.

The concrete must have a moisture level of no more than 4% before painting.

You can apply Concrete Paint 2K with a foam roller or a paint roller. For concrete surfaces, we recommend using a paint roller.

The recommended working temperature (room, surface, and paint) is 70°F.

The minimum temperature for the room and surface is 45°F, while the paint components must be at least 65°F. Working or curing below 45°F can cause drying problems.

The maximum working and curing temperature is 75°F. Do not allow the paint to dry or cure above this temperature.

The recommended humidity level is around 65%. The maximum humidity level should not exceed 80%.

Concrete Paint 2K is ideal for private indoor areas with high traffic, such as garages, basements, workshops, laundry rooms, and bathrooms (no permanent water contact).

It is designed for absorbent concrete, stone, and screed surfaces and provides a durable and easy-to-clean coating for floors and walls. It can also be used on other suitable absorbent surfaces. 

Application on non-absorbent surfaces is possible, but the finish will not be as smooth as Tile Paint 2K.

The working time is about 40 minutes at 70°F and about 25 minutes at 80°F. After this time, the paint can no longer be used.

Concrete Paint 2K has a satin finish. The Ultra White version has a matte finish.

No, we do not recommend applying Concrete Paint 2K over old paint, as adhesion may be reduced. For best results, sand and remove the old coating before application.

No, Concrete Paint 2K is recommended for indoor use only. Outdoor exposure can cause the coating to fade in sunlight and eventually peel.

Uncured Concrete Paint 2K can be removed with acetone. Once cured, it can only be removed by sanding.

Yes, Concrete Paint 2K can be applied with a spray gun and may be thinned with up to 5% water. Keep in mind that spraying usually requires more coats to achieve proper coverage.

Because the paint cures through a chemical reaction, mix small quantities and clean the spray gun immediately after use to prevent the product from curing inside.

Concrete Paint 2K is heat resistant up to 140°F.

Yes, Concrete Paint 2K can be applied on underfloor heating. Turn on the heating once the coating is no longer tacky and leave it on for 7 days.

Unfortunately, custom colors cannot be pre-mixed at our warehouse. However, you can order Concrete Paint 2K without pigment and mix different WB Pigments yourself to create a custom color.

Mix each component thoroughly before combining them. The fillers and binders in Component A can settle at the bottom, leaving more water at the top. We recommend shaking and mixing Component A well (including turning it upside down for a while) before mixing it with Component B in a 4:1 ratio.

No, Concrete Paint 2K is milky due to its binders and fillers and is not suitable as a transparent coating. For a clear finish, use a 2K PU Topcoat as a transparent topcoat on concrete.

Concrete Paint 2K is made to be durable. While we cannot give an exact lifespan, with proper application and care it can last for years and should not require frequent touch-ups.

No, Concrete Paint 2K does not need to be sealed.

Concrete Paint 2K is a water-based epoxy resin paint. We recommend regular dusting and cleaning with water and a mild surfactant.

No, you must always follow the correct mixing ratio. Using more or less hardener will prevent Concrete Paint 2K from curing properly.

Concrete Paint 2K Component A is available in 40 fl oz, 1 gal, and 2 gal.
Concrete Paint 2K Component B is available in 10 fl oz and 0.25 gal.

No, Concrete Paint 2K is low in VOCs, which means it has minimal odor compared to solvent-based paints.

No, Concrete Paint 2K is a paint, not a filler or plaster. It is made to add color while keeping the existing texture and structure of the floor.

If you are looking for a decorative plaster finish, consider microcement or concrete effect. Please note that concrete effect is suitable for walls only, while microcement can be applied on both walls and floors.

No, Concrete Paint 2K is applied in a thin layer and keeps the existing floor structure. A painted surface will not be more slippery.

No, Concrete Paint 2K is not recommended for pools or areas with permanent water contact.

Concrete Paint 2K is easy to clean and offers good resistance to stains and spills. Oils and liquids take longer to soak in, giving you time to wipe them away before they stain.

No, we do not recommend applying Concrete Paint 2K on vinyl or PVC floors.

Yes, it is possible to apply Concrete Paint 2K on a wooden floor.

Yes, Concrete Paint 2K can be used to paint stairs.

You can add microglass beads to increase slip resistance. Please note that adding microglass beads may change the color of the paint.

No, it is not possible to achieve a marble effect with Concrete Paint 2K.

No, Concrete Paint 2K is not compatible with most primers or other paints. We do not recommend applying another product underneath it.

Yes, concrete paint 2k is open to diffusion. 

We recommend broadcasting quartz sand onto the freshly applied Concrete Paint 2K to help protect it from materials with high plasticizer content, such as new winter car tires.

Apply the paint wet-on-wet and work carefully to avoid overlaps and visible marks.

Floor coatings can show signs of wear depending on how they are used. Scratches, grooves, or color changes may appear from abrasion, dirt, organic substances (such as coffee, tea, or red wine), or chemicals like disinfectants and acids.

These are visual changes only and do not affect the technical performance of the coating. Keep in mind that lighter or brighter colors may show dirt and wear more easily than darker shades.

The following accessories are included in the Concrete Paint 2K accessory set: 

• 1x Flat Brush – 3
• 1x Paint Roller 10 with Handle
• 1x Stir Stick
• 1x Paint Tray 12×13
• 1x Nitrile Gloves
• 1x Masking Tape 1 1/4 x 164ft
• 1x Mixing Bucket 8 litres
• 1x Plastic Drop Cloth – Large – 495sqft

Peeling can happen if the surface was not stable or properly prepared, if too much time passed between coats, or if the Concrete Paint 2K is exposed to water-rising moisture or too many plasticizers.

If Concrete Paint 2K scratches easily, it may be a sign that the coating did not cure properly, the surface was not stable or well prepared, or too much time passed between coats.

To help identify the cause, check the surface preparation, curing conditions, and the waiting time between layers.

Micrometal is an acrylic-based metallic decorative plaster designed for walls. It creates a textured surface with a real metallic appearance.

Micrometal is a plaster that creates texture and depth.
Metallic Brush Effect is a paint that provides a metallic look without adding texture.

1. Add the supplied metallic pigment to the Micrometal decorative plaster and mix thoroughly.
2. Apply a thin first layer over the entire surface using a trowel. Let it dry before applying the second layer.
3. Apply the second layer by dabbing the Micrometal onto the surface using two trowels until fully textured.
4. Smooth the texture lightly with a clean trowel, moving from top to bottom.
5. Allow the Micrometal to dry completely.

Pro Tip:
When working on large areas, apply and smooth the second layer in sections from top to bottom to prevent the material from drying too quickly.

Primer is not required before applying Micrometal.

The substrate should be smooth, dry, clean, and free from dust, dirt, release agents, and unevenness. Proper surface preparation ensures good adhesion and a high-quality finish.

We recommend adding approximately 2.5% metallic pigment to the Micrometal.

For a 1.18-gallon bucket, add 125 g of metallic pigment and mix thoroughly for an even color result.

The processing time depends on room temperature. At 70°F, you have approximately 1 hour to apply and texture the Micrometal. Higher temperatures will reduce the working time.

The drying time of Micrometal is approximately 24 hours at 70°F.

Drying time may vary depending on room temperature and sun exposure.

Yes, you can mix the metallic pigment into your Micrometal, close the lid tightly, and use it at a later time.

Make sure the container is properly sealed to prevent the material from drying out.

Micrometal can be applied at temperatures between 40°F and 95°F.

For best results, we recommend working around 70°F.

Micrometal can be applied on concrete, metal, plastic, wood, and most other wall surfaces.

Make sure the surface is clean, dry, and stable before application.

No, Micrometal is designed for wall applications only and should not be used on floors.

Yes, Micrometal can be used indoors.

It can also be used outdoors when protected with our PUTopcoat to ensure durability and weather resistance.

Yes, Micrometal can be used in wet rooms such as bathrooms and basements.

For shower areas and other moisture-exposed surfaces, it must be sealed with our PUTopcoat for proper protection.

Yes, Micrometal can be applied on tiles.

For tiled or other uneven surfaces, we recommend leveling the surface first with our Putty Primer before applying Micrometal to ensure a smooth and even finish.

We recommend applying Micrometal using a trowel for best results and proper texture control.

No, we do not recommend applying Micrometal with a brush or roller.

For the correct texture and finish, Micrometal should be applied using a trowel.

Yes, Micrometal can be sealed to improve water resistance and make cleaning and maintenance easier.

We recommend applying our Pu Topcoat over the fully dried Micrometal to achieve a waterproof and more durable finish.

For Micrometal surfaces without a PU Topcoat, gently dust the wall with a microfiber cloth. Avoid using water or cleaning products.

For Micrometal surfaces sealed with a PU Topcoat, clean using mild surfactants only. Do not use acidic, chlorinated, or strongly alkaline cleaners.

No, Micrometal cannot be diluted or thinned.

It is supplied ready to use and should be applied as delivered.

No, Micrometal is not scratch or abrasion resistant on its own.

To achieve a more scratch-resistant and durable surface, PU Topcoat must be applied over the fully dried Micrometal.

Unpigmented Micrometal is white with a slight metallic sheen.

Clean all tools and accessories with water immediately after use.

Do not allow Micrometal to dry on tools, as it will be much harder to remove once cured.

Micrometal should be smoothed with a trowel while it is still damp.

Once fully dried, it can no longer be smoothed with a trowel and can only be sanded.

• Before opening: 12 months when stored properly.
• After opening: 6 months when stored properly and kept tightly sealed.

Always store at room temperature and protect from direct sunlight.

Store Micrometal tightly sealed at room temperature.

• Minimum storage temperature: 50°F
• Maximum storage temperature: 75°F

Do not expose Micrometal to direct sunlight, as this may affect product quality.

Micrometal is UV resistant, solvent-free, and eco-friendly, making it a durable and environmentally conscious decorative wall finish.

It is also resistant to mold and fungus, providing a hygienic and long-lasting solution for interior and exterior wall applications.

The smallest size available for Micrometal is 1.18 gallons.

You need approximately 1.8 oz of Micrometal per sq ft.

Coverage may vary slightly depending on texture and application technique.

Two layers of Micrometal are required to achieve the finish shown on our website.

Micrometal has a density of 9.18 lb per gallon.

Cracks in Micrometal can occur due to excessive sun exposure or high temperatures, which cause the material to dry too quickly.

To prevent this, avoid working in direct sunlight or heat. Any unwanted irregularities can be smoothed or leveled while the material is still damp.

Color differences in Micrometal can occur due to sun exposure or high temperatures during application and drying.

Heat and direct sunlight can affect the drying process and lead to visible color variations between areas or different batches.

The Metallic Brush Effect is a high-quality decorative metallic paint for walls and floors that creates a modern, industrial-style textured finish with metallic reflections. It is durable, washable, odourless, and solvent-free, and provides a satin finish for a sophisticated look.

The Metallic Brush Effect set for walls includes the Primer 1K with WB pigment and the Metallic Brush Effect paint with metallic pigment.

The Metallic Brush Effect set for floors includes the Primer 1K with WB pigment, the Metallic Brush Effect paint with metallic pigment, and a polyurethane protective coat (PU Topcoat).

You do not need to order any extra products to achieve the effect shown on the website.

Yes — the Primer 1K must be applied under the Metallic Brush Effect paint to achieve the same finish and effect shown on the website.

The Metallic Brush Effect paint has a satin finish.

We recommend mixing thoroughly with a stirrer attached to a cordless drill. Start at about 450 rpm for approximately 3 minutes. For larger quantities, you can gradually increase the speed. Thinner paints (such as Metallic Brush Effect) can be mixed up to 1000 rpm, while thicker paints can be mixed up to 1800 rpm.

We do not recommend spray applying the Metallic Brush Effect paint. The Primer 1K can be spray applied, and you may add up to 5% water when spraying.

No — the Metallic Brush Effect paint will not hide or level floor imperfections. It is a decorative paint that only adds a new colour and finish. We do not recommend applying it on tiles, as the texture and grout lines will still be visible.

The primer and Metallic Brush Effect paint must be applied at a minimum of 45°F, including the substrate, room, and paint temperature. Applying the paint below this temperature can cause poor coverage and drying problems.

Yes — the 1K Primer and Metallic Brush Effect paint are UV resistant, so they won’t crack when applied outdoors in the sun. However, the colour may change over time outdoors, and some shades (especially reds with WB pigment) may become brighter with time.

Yes — the Metallic Brush Effect floor kit includes enough PU Topcoat for 2 coats.

We recommend applying 1 coat of Primer 1K, then once dry applying 1 coat of Metallic Brush Effect paint. To achieve the finish shown on our website, the effect paint should not be applied for full coverage.

The Primer 1K colour depends on the Metallic Brush Effect shade:

• Light Platinum Silver → WB Pigment RAL 7035 Light Grey
• Dark Platinum Silver → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Bronze Brown → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Bronze Red → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Havana Bronze → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Intense Anthracite → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Satin Grey → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Shimmer Gold → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Flame Copper → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Dark Carbon Red → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Dark Olive Green → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Olympic Blue → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Pacific Turquoise → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Violet Blue → WB Pigment RAL 7016 Anthracite Grey
• Light Carbon Red → WB Pigment RAL 3004 Purple Red
• Bright Olive Green → WB Pigment RAL 6010 Grass Green

Add 10% WB pigment to the Primer 1K (you may add more if needed). Do not add WB pigment to the Metallic Brush Effect paint.

Add 3% metallic pigment to the Metallic Brush Effect paint. Do not add metallic pigment to the Primer 1K.

The metallic brush effect effect paint for walls accessory set includes:

• 1x Paint Roller 10″ with handle
• 1x Foam Roller 4″ with handle
• 1x Paint Tray 12X13″
• 1x Masking Tape1 1/4″X164ft
• 2x Stir Stick
• 1x Nitrile Gloves
• 1x Plastic Drop Cloth – Large – 495sqft

Primer 1K is available in 50 fl. oz. and 0.95 gal. sizes. The Metallic Brush Effect paint is available in 33 fl. oz. and 91.2 fl. oz. sizes.

Primer 1K covers approximately 0.4 oz per sq ft, and the Metallic Brush Effect paint covers approximately 0.45 oz per sq ft.

Store the paints in a cool, dry, and frost-free area, at temperatures not exceeding 75°F. Unopened paint can be stored for up to 1 year, and opened paint for up to 6 months under ideal conditions. If storage conditions are not respected, the shelf life may be reduced.

No — we do not recommend mixing WB pigment with metallic pigment, as both are opaque, which means the metallic effect will not be visible.

No — the unpigmented Metallic Brush Effect paint is not transparent; it has a milky white appearance.

Both the Metallic Brush Effect paint and Primer 1K are acrylic-based paints.

No — the RTV Silicone cures at room temperature and does not require special equipment. We do not offer ready-made molds, but you can use our RTV Silicone to make your own mold.

To use: mix the A-component and B-component in a 1:1 ratio (for example, 0.21 gal + 0.21 gal) for 3–5 minutes. Let the mixture defoam for 30–50 minutes, place the object into the silicone, and allow it to cure for 6–8 hours (at 75–80°F) before removing the object. The cured silicone can then be used as a negative mold.

Yes — we offer spiked slip-on shoes with dull spikes. Each shoe has 16 spikes, with spikes measuring 18 mm long. The shoes measure approximately 355 mm long and 175 mm wide. Please note that our spiked shoes can't be used to talk on microcement.

The polish is a liquid product used to polish epoxy resin and other resins. The carnauba wax is an all-purpose wax used to polish and protect surfaces such as epoxy resin, wood, and cars.

Our Carnauba Wax is a liquid wax that can be used on cured epoxy resin, polyurethane resin, cars, furniture, wood, metal, glass, and more. 

No — EPODEX Carnauba Wax is not made from 100% pure carnauba, as it is a formulated mixture, and it is not food safe.

The processing temperature of the epoxy glue is 40°F to 200°F. 

The teeth on the Surface Squeegee 10" and Surface Squeegee 20" with Pole Holder are 1/8" deep and 1/8" wide.

Before first use, rinse the roller with water and let it dry completely to remove loose fibres. You can also wrap painter’s tape around the roller and peel it off to pick up any remaining fibres. During application, use even pressure and avoid pressing too hard to prevent fibres from coming loose.

Yes — we sell masking tape for epoxy resin floors. We recommend removing the tape before the epoxy resin fully hardens, otherwise it may be difficult to remove.